In Dust We Trust

A spectacular route that climbs the prow of the Flatiron following crack systems from start to finish.  Route was put-up from the ground over the course of three days.  

Pitch 1 begins at the toe of the formation and climbs up crack to a small roof.  Do an exciting, short traverse beneath the roof and belay below the squeeze/notch.  

Pitch 2 continues through the squeeze and up loose feeling crack.  Stay in crack until a step to the left takes you directly onto the prow (single bolt for rappel) or continue in crack for several more feet until you can once again step left onto the prow. A short section of face climbing leads to some blocky climbing and finally to the white band of rock. A long pitch.  

Pitch 3 begins in shallow crack (piton, marks the start) and climbs about 20’ (this section was aided two times and seems difficult to lead due to rock quality.  Straightforward aiding.) until a bolt can be clipped out right.  Step right into a somewhat hollow sounding “chimney” and continue upwards to a friendly but, bird poop covered, ramp.  Negotiate the widening (#4, #5, #6) overhanging crack until a bolt can be clipped out right.  Exit right and follow short system to exposed and airy belay near jojoba bush.  

Pitch 4 can be started directly off belay or you can move belay about 12 feet up and off right to the base of a pillar-like formation.  The benefit of moving the belay is the leader can now traverse directly left about 15-18 feet to gain the wide crack, exciting and exposed.  Up the crack and around a couple of barrel cactus eventually places you into a dirt and jojoba alcove.  

Pitch 5 begins by clearing the jojoba’s and into the final physical crux. Decide on your best option of surmounting the bird poop covered ledge/large-flake-feature (stemming works well until you can pull yourself over) above and follow nice cracks to a belay or continue to the summit.

Find your way to the prow of the Flatiron.  Route begins in crack system about 4 feet right of prow.  You can also climb about 35 meters of the route Evil Edge (5.10 R) but the first several meters are unprotected.  

Double rack from small to #3, single #4, #5, #6. Alpine draws, single 70 meter.