Type: Trad, Sport, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches
FA: EFR,JSt,Ben Morin
Page Views: 2,458 total · 14/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on May 5, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route


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Description

A challenging 5.10 route with a long first pitch of trad climbing. Stay right at the tongue like overhang and save the #4 camalot to protect the moves. Not sure where the crux is. Pitch 1 has a short but powerful layback section while 3 has a very smooth bit of slab. It will take a few ascents to clean the grains and fuzz off of the first pitch. The second and third are solid and fun. Stay left at the top of pitch 3 unless you want a little more excitement. The route finishes by starting up the last pitch of Warpaint then busts right up the steeper plated face with bolts that forms the right side of the chimney/corner of Warpaint's last pitch. An easier but grungy (it will get better) first pitch can be done. "Chief Tossing Cookies" starts 40 feet left of Dustdevils. A neat crack flake system takes you past a different pine tree. When you reach the ledge walk all the way to the right to the anchors.

Location

Approach the same as Warpaint but go left when you reach the cliff. The route starts by soloing a little 5.7(15ft.) around the left side of a huge rock that leans against the main dome. This rock is just left of the big cave you rap into when descending from Warpaint. 1) Step off of rock and head up nearest crack to small pine below roof with crack. Follow crack right to a hanging roof. Stuff a #4 Camalot into wide crack on the right side of the hanging roof. Move up and right to crack/corner system. Belay at good ledge. 2) Move right from the anchors to a seam then follow bolts 100ft to next anchors. 3) Climb water stain to ledge. Make a move or two up the crack then clip bolt and climb green face up to anchors at the top of the fourth pitch on Warpaint. Finish on Warpaint or after doing the crux section of the 5th pitch step right on to the steeper bolted headwall that forms the right side of the corner/chimney on the 5th pitch of Warpaint. Rap down Warpaint. Rap Dustdevils if others are on Warpaint

Protection

The first pitch takes a full rack with doubles on cams to #3 Camalot. The third pitch takes cams from 1 inch to 3 inch. The second pitch is all bolts.

Photos