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Routes in Little Joe

Exsqueeze Me TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Six Flavors T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
iPod T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Nick Nordblom, et al
Page Views: 364 total, 3/month
Shared By: Anthony Anagnostou on Apr 27, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

iPod follows a left-leaning crack system to the top of the Little Joe formation. It starts with a hand to fingers crack in clean varnished rock that pulls into a big flaring pod. From here, protect with wide cams, and climb in or out of the leaning varnished flare (you can climb the slopey arete just left of the crack) to the top. The crux is at the bottom, which is probably 9+ or 10a, but who knows.

Location

iPod climbs from the northwest corner of the Little Joe formation. Find the rap anchor above the bolted route to get down.

Protection

A white alien, double .75 to #3, and some offwidth cams. With the spicy-feeling climbing up past the leaning flare, i was happy with four (yes! four) big cams (new school #4 and #5 camalot, and two #6s) but you could use more or less depending on your Pansy-Quotient. You could also stuff smaller cams in the back of the crack instead of huge ones, but i thought the bigger stuff made it more fun. (I have a pretty high PQ, for the record)

Photos

J. Thompson
denver, co
J. Thompson   denver, co
The route is more like 5.10c/d.
I used a single set of cams with nothing bigger than a #3 camalot.
I would put my "PQ" pretty low... Apr 28, 2007