All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Pine Creek Canyon > Little Joe

iPod

Name: iPod
Rating: 2.0

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in Little Joe

	Exsqueeze Me TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	iPod T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Six Flavors T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
GPS:	36.12065, -115.4915
FA:	Nick Nordblom, et al
Page Views:	1,026 total · 4/month
Shared By:	Anthony Anagnostou on Apr 27, 2006
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

iPod follows a left-leaning crack system to the top of the Little Joe formation. It starts with a hand to fingers crack in clean varnished rock that pulls into a big flaring pod. From here, protect with wide cams, and climb in or out of the leaning varnished flare (you can climb the slopey arete just left of the crack) to the top. The crux is at the bottom, which is probably 9+ or 10a, but who knows.

Location

iPod climbs from the northwest corner of the Little Joe formation. Find the rap anchor above the bolted route to get down.

Protection

A white alien, double .75 to #3, and some offwidth cams. With the spicy-feeling climbing up past the leaning flare, i was happy with four (yes! four) big cams (new school #4 and #5 camalot, and two #6s) but you could use more or less depending on your Pansy-Quotient. You could also stuff smaller cams in the back of the crack instead of huge ones, but i thought the bigger stuff made it more fun. (I have a pretty high PQ, for the record)