Little Joe Rock Climbing
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|Shared By:||Anthony Anagnostou on Apr 27, 2006|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
DescriptionLittle Joe is basically a big boulder, nestled into the slopes beneath the Community Pillar wall. From the Pine Creek wash, it might not look too appealing, but there are several short (up to 70') fun routes on it that make it a neat excursion for the local who's done everything, or an extra pitch on the way down from Community Pillar et al.
There are three crack systems on it, a bolted face/arete, and some other face lines that might be worth toproping. The routes were first explored by Nick Nordblom, et al, sometime in the 80's, but route names and grades are unknown, so I've invented and guessed, respectively. Please comment if you have better beta.
The three trad cracks take hand-size cams to build anchors at the top.
There is a bolted climb which ascends the varnished face right of the southwest arete (looks like 5.12) and the rap anchor above that provides a friendly way to get off the formation. Be careful stepping down to the anchor.
You can ascend the east side of the footstool with ledgy scrambling and a couple easy fifth class moves on bad rock to gain the top of the formation and set up a toprope.
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
Getting ThereLittle Joe is almost at the base of the Community Pillar wall. If you are contouring along the base of the wall, it is easier to access it from the right side (say, coming from Magic Triangle) than the left side (as if approaching from the start of Community Pillar). Or, you can take your favorite way into the left fork of Pine Creek (the braided trails to Cat in the Hat work) and then look for two stands of pine trees in the wash. The first stand is four trees, two dead. Just upstream are two more tall trees. The best path I've found yet starts near these two trees. It takes about an hour from the parking lot.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season