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Routes in Little Joe

Exsqueeze Me TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Six Flavors T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
iPod T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: Nick Nordblom, et al
Page Views: 437 total, 3/month
Shared By: Anthony Anagnostou on Apr 27, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Exsqueeze Me is a short squeeze chimney that would need big bros to protect. It starts with a few yards of scrambling easy broken rock to a clean varnished tight chimney with no pro until a large lodged chockstone near the top, where you can escape right or left around the detached boulder on top of the Footstool, or just pull over the top on face holds. There are numerous face features on the right side of the crack which make this smooth chimney a lot easier than it might appear. The face rock is not that great, however, despite me peeling off a dozen rotten flakes and the like, so if you have the super-wide pro and you want to lead it, be advised.

Location

Exsqueeze Me faces the main Community Pillar wall. Find the rap anchor above the bolted route to get off.

Protection

A toprope setup could be made with a variety of hand-size cams or offwidth cams (to #4.5 old camalot, or #5 new camalot). Belay from the top. If you wanted to lead it, big bros would probably protect it well, as the chimney itself is pretty parallel with excellent rock.

Photos

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