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Routes in Turret Rock and Environs

Arputso Goes to Seattle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blue Moon T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butterfly Flats T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Caterpiller Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chimney Cricket T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cold Warrior 5.8, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cosmic Ray S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jambrosia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mo So Low S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mousetrap T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Name Odd Though T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pretzel Logic T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Punch Out T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rabbit Tracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Racing The Moon T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
So Low T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stealth Made Man T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Thunderhead Spire T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport
FA: (RT,DB,75')
Page Views: 1,064 total, 8/month
Shared By: James Stegen on Apr 3, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

The crux comes about 20ft. off the deck and is well protected via a bolt. This is a pretty stiff crux for a 5.9, but this is what squeezing the lemmon calls it. At the last "bulge" before the finishing slab one can go left and probably get pro or stick with the line and go for the 5.8R slab. Moving way right here is wild and fun!

Location

This route is right of rabbit tracks about 10ft. Look for the lone bolt.

Protection

One bolt at the crux and the rest is all gear with chains at the top (shared with rabbit tracks)

Photos

Boodge Nomchompski  
  5.9
This line can be safely led without the bolt. There's small but good gear at your feet when you can reach the bolt, and great gear about a foot above the bolt. I understand the reason for the bolt - make sure you're solid at the grade before trying this on gear only, as the placements at the crux are not trivial. Dec 7, 2008