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Routes in Turret Rock and Environs

Arputso Goes to Seattle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blue Moon T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butterfly Flats T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Caterpiller Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chimney Cricket T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cold Warrior 5.8, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cosmic Ray S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jambrosia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mo So Low S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mousetrap T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Name Odd Though T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pretzel Logic T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Punch Out T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rabbit Tracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Racing The Moon T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
So Low T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stealth Made Man T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Thunderhead Spire T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Gary Axen, Rich Thompson
Page Views: 1,608 total · 9/month
Shared By: kBobby Hanson on Dec 19, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

As you approach the area as described above, you will go under a big slab boulder. This is the "tunnel" I described in the approach. As you go through this, the rock to your right is Jambrosia Tower. The route Jambrosia is on the far side of this tower (South). There is a left-facing corner near a large pine tree. This corner is Just For Grins, 5.6*. Just to the left of this corner is a steep hand and fist crack that appears to be an offwidth (trust me, its hands and fists). This crack is Jambrosia. Climb this in one pitch to the chimney. You can wriggle up to the top and descend via chains on the East side OR you can wriggle across it to a small pine tree, and walkoff/downclimb to the north and back above the "tunnel".

Protection

The route appears wider from the ground than it really is. Cams up to about #2 Camalot should suffice. You may want a double of #1. You shouldn't need small stoppers or small cams.

Photos

Jackson.
Flagstaff AZ
 
Jackson.   Flagstaff AZ
 
I don't know if I would call this as "a great crack climb" which is how it was described to me. The majority of the route is awkward groove climbing with the last 10 feet or so being a hand crack. If you want to get some fun easy jamming in on lemmon I would suggest Solders Revenge at Hidden Jewels. Apr 1, 2013
mark loseth
tucson, AZ
  5.8
mark loseth   tucson, AZ
  5.8
an actual crack climb at Mt. Lemmon! great lead for the 5.8 leader; good gear, steep section at the top and good jams. it's only downfall is that it is just too short! also an easy scramble to chains on east face, and a bunch of moderate routes on the tower and in the immediate area for the moderate leader. fun spot. Feb 3, 2008