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Routes in Turret Rock and Environs

Arputso Goes to Seattle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blue Moon T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butterfly Flats T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Caterpiller Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chimney Cricket T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cold Warrior 5.8, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cosmic Ray S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jambrosia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mo So Low S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mousetrap T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Name Odd Though T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pretzel Logic T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Punch Out T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rabbit Tracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Racing The Moon T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
So Low T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stealth Made Man T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Thunderhead Spire T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Rich Thompson
Page Views: 2,753 total, 16/month
Shared By: Vincent Greene on Dec 7, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

All the way down the hill at Turret rock to a crack on the left edge of the quite narrow west face. Follow the crack to the chains.

Protection

Standard rack - the cracks will eat up all the gear you can feed it.

Photos

Nick Henscheid
Tucson, AZ
  5.6
Nick Henscheid   Tucson, AZ
  5.6
I sure haven't tried them all, but I can't currently think of a better single pitch of 5.6 on Mount Lemmon. Yes, it's 5.6, if you can hand jam and smear a bit. The views are spectacular, the climbing is thoughtful, and the gear is really good - you could unload an entire double rack (0.2-3) on this thing if you wanted. Is it a good first gear lead for today's modern gym climber with a brand new single rack of C4s? No, probably not - some of the stances are thin, it really helps to know how to place passive gear, and hand jam, and move confidently through cruxes. But then again, there isn't a whole lot of easier gear climbing on the mountain (maybe a handful), so IMHO I would say this would be a perfect first "Real Bonafide" Mt. Lemmon trad lead. Sep 25, 2016
NickMartel
Tucson, Arizona
NickMartel   Tucson, Arizona
I think Safe Cracker at Jailhouse is an awesome 1st trad lead. Oct 23, 2011
John Hayes
Bend, OR
  5.6
John Hayes   Bend, OR
  5.6
Rabbit tracks was the first climb I ever followed and my first lead. As my first climb, it scared the bjesus out of me. Back in the old days (like the 70's) this climb was considered a "standard" Tucson 5.6 and was a first lead for a lot of folks back then. It takes bomber gear every few feet so it is totally safe for a newbie trad leader. It is certainly possible to make a few 5.7 moves on Rabbit Tracks; but, if you work at, you can actually find a 5.6 path to the top. Take a full rack and you will be happy. (This climb sucks up hexentrics for those who still remember those things.) The short, bolted, two move pitch above the ledge is about 5.9 and can be avoided with a rappel. (BTW, Slippery When Wet is another good 5.6 trad climb for the newbie leader) Dec 19, 2010
Mike Dudley
Vegas
  5.7
Mike Dudley   Vegas
  5.7
We climbed this today and I have got to say awesome route for any level of climber, good and fun.

The gear is amazing you can zipper this one all the way to the top. I would absolutely recommend this to any climber who feels comfy on 5.7. May 1, 2010
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
 
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
 
...I thought so too... May 22, 2006
Timothy Roehr
Tucson,Az
Timothy Roehr   Tucson,Az
I actually thought the pro was very good and the stances were good. Up top the cracks disappear, but I was still able to find good nut placements. May 22, 2006
Almonzo Wilder
Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.7+
Almonzo Wilder   Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.7+
Yep, Rabbit Tracks is high on my list of sandbagged Lemmon climbs on which an early leader could run into serious trouble. I've led this a few times and followed it a few times, and am consistently surprised by its 5.6 rating. On lead, it feels like 5.7+, but as Vincent points out, part of this is due to the awkward stances necessary while placing pro. In any event, its a stretch to call this a three-star route. Feb 4, 2004
Sqeezing the Lemmon II mentions this is many beginners first gear lead. There are others that would be better - Hoosgal 5.5 or Probation 5.6 at Prison camp are probably better choices. This is a fun climb, but weird stances make placing the gear much more tiring on this climb. See an area comment by almonzo for some other suggestions. I felt this is closer to a 5.7. Dec 28, 2003