GPS: 32.367, -110.716 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 8,290 total · 45/month
Shared By: Bobby Hanson on Dec 20, 2003 with updates from Andrew R
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

Description

Like most of the stuff around Windy Point, Turret Rocks is a group of towers with climbing on all aspects (read: shade chasing). Moderate trad climbing, and 5.10 to 5.12 sport climbing prevails. For moderate trad, I suggest Jambrosia 5.8** on the tower by the same name, and Rabbit Tracks 5.6***. The latter is especially great for the new leader. I have only done one sport climb there, but they all look great.

Getting There

Park at the Windy Point parking area and drop down below the Practice Wall. You can descend directly under the Practice Wall straight toward Turret Rock (which has an obvious "turret" on it) via a short 3rd class section; OR you can go farther west toward the overhanging boulders and drop down there without any 3rd class. When you get to the first big rocks (Bare Ass Rocks), there is a trail down between them toward Turret Rock. The easiest way down this gully is to go into the tight tunnel formed by the fallen slab. This tunnel is pretty tight: if you can do it easily with packs on, you are not in the right tunnel. On the way back, it is easier to go above the slab that forms the tunnel. After this, Turret Rock is directly in front of you. Note the block on top with two points of contact sporting chains! Jambrosia is directly to your right as you face Turret Rock.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Turret Rock and Environs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 40
Rabbit Tracks
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 16
Jambrosia
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 28
Caterpiller Corner
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 13
Mousetrap
Trad, Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Stealth Made Man
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rabbit Tracks
 40
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Jambrosia
 16
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Caterpiller Corner
 28
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Mousetrap
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
Stealth Made Man
 6
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Turret Rock and Environs »

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Photos

Almonzo Wilder
Flagstaff, Arizona
Almonzo Wilder   Flagstaff, Arizona
Rabbit Tracks is NOT a good climb for a beginning leader. The pro is not trivial, and the climb is one of the more intimidating 5.6 routes on Mt. Lemmon, if not anywhere. Good trad alternatives: Standard Route on Chimney Rock (5.7 crux has a bolt), Slippery When Wet (skip early 5.7+ move if you're looking for a very fun 5.6 route), or Monkey Business on Green Slabs. Dec 24, 2003
GPS reading between Bare Ass rocks and Turret rock, roughly at the end of the "tunnel". Sep 13, 2004
David Lammers
Grand Junction, CO
David Lammers   Grand Junction, CO
The route "The Cold Warrior" finishes on the turret block (NE part of Turret Rock). The chains are at the edge of the block. The block however is held up by 2 small pillars that are perpendicular to the chains. I was concerned being lowered because the physics (of tipping this block down on yourself and the belayer) are working against you. Probably not the best chain placement location. Sep 10, 2011