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Routes in Turret Rock and Environs

Arputso Goes to Seattle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blue Moon T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butterfly Flats T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Caterpiller Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chimney Cricket T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cold Warrior 5.8, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cosmic Ray S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jambrosia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mo So Low S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mousetrap T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Name Odd Though T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pretzel Logic T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Punch Out T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rabbit Tracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Racing The Moon T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
So Low T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stealth Made Man T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Thunderhead Spire T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Shared By: kBobby Hanson on Dec 20, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

Like most of the stuff around Windy Point, Turret Rocks is a group of towers with climbing on all aspects (read: shade chasing). Moderate trad climbing, and 5.10 to 5.12 sport climbing prevails. For moderate trad, I suggest Jambrosia 5.8** on the tower by the same name, and Rabbit Tracks 5.6***. The latter is especially great for the new leader. I have only done one sport climb there, but they all look great.

Getting There

Park at the Windy Point parking area and drop down below the Practice Wall. You can descend directly under the Practice Wall straight toward Turret Rock (which has an obvious "turret" on it) via a short 3rd class section; OR you can go farther west toward the overhanging boulders and drop down there without any 3rd class. When you get to the first big rocks (Bare Ass Rocks), there is a trail down between them toward Turret Rock. The easiest way down this gully is to go into the tight tunnel formed by the fallen slab. This tunnel is pretty tight: if you can do it easily with packs on, you are not in the right tunnel. On the way back, it is easier to go above the slab that forms the tunnel. After this, Turret Rock is directly in front of you. Note the block on top with two points of contact sporting chains! Jambrosia is directly to your right as you face Turret Rock.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Turret Rock and Environs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rabbit Tracks
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jambrosia
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Caterpiller Corner
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mousetrap
Trad, Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stealth Made Man
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rabbit Tracks 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Jambrosia 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Caterpiller Corner 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Mousetrap 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
Stealth Made Man 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
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Photos

David Lammers
Grand Junction, CO
David Lammers   Grand Junction, CO
The route "The Cold Warrior" finishes on the turret block (NE part of Turret Rock). The chains are at the edge of the block. The block however is held up by 2 small pillars that are perpendicular to the chains. I was concerned being lowered because the physics (of tipping this block down on yourself and the belayer) are working against you. Probably not the best chain placement location. Sep 10, 2011
GPS reading between Bare Ass rocks and Turret rock, roughly at the end of the "tunnel". Sep 13, 2004
Almonzo Wilder
Flagstaff, Arizona
Almonzo Wilder   Flagstaff, Arizona
Rabbit Tracks is NOT a good climb for a beginning leader. The pro is not trivial, and the climb is one of the more intimidating 5.6 routes on Mt. Lemmon, if not anywhere. Good trad alternatives: Standard Route on Chimney Rock (5.7 crux has a bolt), Slippery When Wet (skip early 5.7+ move if you're looking for a very fun 5.6 route), or Monkey Business on Green Slabs. Dec 24, 2003

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