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Routes in Turret Rock and Environs

Arputso Goes to Seattle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blue Moon T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butterfly Flats T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Caterpiller Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chimney Cricket T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cold Warrior 5.8, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cosmic Ray S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jambrosia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mo So Low S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mousetrap T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Name Odd Though T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pretzel Logic T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Punch Out T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rabbit Tracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Racing The Moon T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
So Low T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stealth Made Man T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Thunderhead Spire T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 65 ft
FA: Chris Henze, Eric Fazio-Rhicard, Cyrena Goodrich, Mark Hathaway, '88
Page Views: 89 total, 1/month
Shared By: Daniel Cohn on May 21, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Start in a short, shallow dihedral that is naturally protected. Start clipping bolts and climb through a lower angle section of moderate difficulty. Rest on a ledge and clip the bolt before the reachy crux. Climb on good holds to a flake and get a few small pieces in before the exciting finish. The moves are interesting, the rock quality good, and the bolt spacing and pro added some spice.

Location

This is near the bottom of the gully that most people will use to climb out of and into Bare Ass and Turret Rocks. There are two pretty big cliffs separated by a chimney. This route starts on the right side of the left cliff. It starts in a shallow right facing dihedral that quickly turns into a face.

Protection

It is mostly bolted but most people will use small nuts and micro cams for the beginning and the end. There are chains and a directional bolt on top.

Photos

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John Hayes
Bend, OR
  5.11a
John Hayes   Bend, OR
  5.11a
I love this route! The pitch is reasonably long and starts with fairly easy moves which get harder the higher you go. The crux is the last move done over good stoppers. Take a rack of small to large stoppers and small to medium cams. RTM has some of the best steep face climbing at Windy Point. Enjoy! Dec 18, 2010