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Routes in (q) Sunkist Face

Burning Down the House T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Cheap Day Return T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Jigsaw T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Question of Balance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Darrell Hensel, October 1987
Page Views: 1,339 total, 9/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Mar 24, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is the thin face climb right of Jigsaw (5.10a R), running up the center of the Sunkist Face. Three bolts protect tenuous 5.12 moves, with a bit of runout 5.10 climbing above.

Protection

3 bolts, gear to 2.5" for the anchor

Photos

johannsolo
So Cal
  5.12c R
johannsolo   So Cal
  5.12c R
Finally got this on lead. What a great route, thank you Darrell. Nov 16, 2014
johannsolo
So Cal
  5.12c R
johannsolo   So Cal
  5.12c R
Not bad (~20') but I still had a move to do to get to the decent right hand. I was "tense and nervous and can't relax".
Editing comment: the fall was OK. Oct 21, 2014
A bit of a ride, eh? Oct 21, 2014
johannsolo
So Cal
  5.12c R
johannsolo   So Cal
  5.12c R
Three lead attempts yesterday, all resulted in big falls. Still a little hot. Oct 20, 2014
johannsolo
So Cal
  5.12c R
johannsolo   So Cal
  5.12c R
Arguably the best hard slab route in So Cal. One tenuous rest in 40 feet of continuous, steep, thin hold smedging. Perfect rock. Nov 20, 2012
C Miller   CA  
To quote KP - "If you have to think, you're off". Jul 11, 2008
Really slick and featureless rock. While it doesn't have any individual moves on it that are as hard as some other routes, I still found this to be perhaps the most serious lead I've done at either rock. I found there to be more than a couple of hard moves on it. And most of the hard climbing is not near the bolts. My feeling was/is that the moves from the first bolt up to about 20' above the third are almost all 5.11 or 5.12 with no place to really stop. In my book, a hard psychological lead due to the runouts and continuous, and tenuous, nature of the climbing.

But then, those are just my opinions. I'd be curious to hear what other people who have led the route think. Perhaps there is a rubber that works better than what I used?

The route was almost done with two bolts. However, a long fall from the last hard moves intimidated me into placing a third bolt. BTW: no need to use the Jigsaw flake, stay left of it. Jul 11, 2008
usetob
Visalia, Ca.
usetob   Visalia, Ca.
Has this been repeated? May 5, 2008