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Routes in (q) Sunkist Face

Burning Down the House T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Cheap Day Return T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Jigsaw T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Question of Balance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Tobin Sorenson and Bill Antel, 1973
Page Views: 318 total, 3/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Sep 4, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Begin with the hairline crack on the far left side of the wall. Climb the crack (10a), then diagonal up and right (10c) as soon as possible to a bolt. From the bolt wander up the face (easy runout) to the top.

Like all of the routes on this face, the climbing is characterized by small, very polished holds.

Take care on the summit. There is an unbelievable amount of small loose stuff around just waiting to be knocked off.

Location

Far left side of the face, starting at a very thin crack.

Protection

Small gear up to 2". A tieoff (1/2" webbing) can also be used to sling a tiny horn/flake.

Photos

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johannsolo
So Cal
johannsolo   So Cal
Read the protection, you place a sling around the horn/flake, then downclimb and head out right on the weekness. After a couple of hard moves it gets easy to the bolt which I replaced a few years ago. Nov 7, 2017
A fall from the crux would put you on the ground unless you climb further up the crack place a piece high, then downclimb back to the right angle ramp up to the bolt. Alternatively just climb up the left diagonal crack then take a undercling crack to join the route above the bolt. 10a this way and much better protected. Oct 10, 2016
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
Also like many on Suicide one can only top rope this with a 70m, and the belayer will be belaying about 1/3 the way up the gully. Aug 30, 2015
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
A couple good opportunities for variations (like everything on Suicide) here. A fun, albeit short no hands slab traverse exists moving back left before you reach the top of the blocks and the normal slab finish. Aug 30, 2015