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Routes in (q) Sunkist Face

Burning Down the House T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Cheap Day Return T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Jigsaw T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Question of Balance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Tobin Sorenson, Bill Antel, John Long, Rob Muir, Richard Harrison, and Bruce Foster, July 1973
Page Views: 131 total, 1/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 2, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

This short face climb has one poorly located bolt, resulting in a bad runout on the crux move.

Protection

one bolt and a few pieces of gear

Photos

johannsolo
So Cal
 
johannsolo   So Cal
 
This is a two star route. I've led it again twice in the last couple weeks and it will get your heart pounding. To call it a bomb is a travesty. Nov 7, 2017
Tradiban  
 
Yea, bolt placement sucks. Perfect bullet rock on the top half of this thing though. Mar 25, 2016
johannsolo
So Cal
 
johannsolo   So Cal
 
I replaced the bolt. I think the route is pretty good. Climb 30 feet up a very nice hand crack/lieback. Climb up 10 feet to clip the bolt. Climb up then left following weaknesses. The quality of the rock is worth at least one star. May 6, 2013
Not only is the bolt poorly located, it's an absolute piece of junk. It's an old 1/4" bolt that sees a lot of water runoff over it, so it's a rusty piece of you know what. Bad scene.

This route should get negative stars. No wait, how come we can't give something multiple bombs like we can stars? This could well be a four bomb route. Four nuclear bombs. (Sorry FA party - gotta tell it like it is...) Sep 4, 2008