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Routes in Doc Holliday Wall

Doc's Holiday S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Far Beyond Driven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Loose Women, Loose Rock T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pistol Pete S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Quick on the Draw S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skyline Pillar S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unforgiven S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Chris Miller, Pete Paredes and Chuck Scott, July 2001
Page Views: 1,525 total, 11/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 21, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Lieback a large, left-facing flake past two bolts which pinches down a bit higher forming a small roof. Clip the 3rd bolt and then fire over the roof (5.11) on slick edges until possible to gain the security of a finger slot. From here climb the right arete/face of the formation (5.9) past two bolts to anchors on a ledge.

Good moves on this route but lacking the continuous nature of the routes further left it's not quite a classic.

Location

Head up past the start of Pistol Pete and Doc's Holiday and then scramble atop a block to reach the start of this route.

Protection

6 bolts, chain anchors
dino74  
I knew the first 3 bolts was "easy", so I was a little careless in my climbing. I peeled off before the second bolt and hit the big boulder at the bottom. Luckily, I only bruised my heel. Just keep in mind the belayer is way below you and you'll get more rope stretch than a normal first bolt fall. Jun 26, 2017
Jeff Edge
  5.11b
Jeff Edge  
  5.11b
+1 for staying left of the bush, fun route. Crux feels pretty fair at 11b since its *so* short, even if it is a tricky 1.5 moves! Compared to Mad Season for example which is a lot more sustained at the grade. Nov 29, 2014
Devin Trafford
  5.11
Devin Trafford  
  5.11
A few near-invisible crimps that lead past the 3rd bolt to a series of committing moves.

If you can make it to the 4th bolt, you've got the route. Jun 26, 2014
RAZORsharp
Carlsbad CA
RAZORsharp   Carlsbad CA
There used to be a loose as hell, big flake near the anchors with a notorious red x on it.... It is gone. watch for loose/uncleaned lines that are chalked up! Oct 12, 2011
tom donnelly
san diego
tom donnelly   san diego
If you contrive to stay left of the bush, it adds a bit better climbing on the upper part. Jun 22, 2010
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.11
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.11
Tricky bouldery crux, with an annoying dead bush in your face right as you finish the sequence. Battle the remanants of the bush for a move or two with bad feet then it's a stroll to the top. Good route that suffers a bit from its non-continuous nature and malevolent deceased flora. 2/5 stars for the area. Compared to other ratings in the area, I'd say it's on the stiff side, but the area as a whole feels a tad soft, so maybe just call it "5.11". Jun 2, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.11c
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.11c
Ok, tried it again a year later. The thing is still hard getting past the 3rd bolt. Key holds are there but difficult to release to get them without falling. Harder than it looks.

Nonetheless I got the rope to the anchor. Next time, no hanging at the crux.

This route is a classic example on how it only takes one move to dictate the grade. The bottom & top sections are significantly easier to ascend. Jun 1, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.11c
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.11c
Difficult moves with long reaches and committing. Hard for the grade IMO.

~Susan Mar 3, 2007