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All Locations > California > San Bernardino… > Big Bear Lake Area > Big Bear North > Holcomb Valley… > Central Pinnacles > Doc Holliday Wall

Unforgiven

5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British


 Avg: 2.5 from 26 votes

Routes in Doc Holliday Wall

Doc's Holiday S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Far Beyond Driven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Loose Women, Loose Rock T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pistol Pete S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Quick on the Draw S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Skyline Pillar S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unforgiven S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Chris Miller, Pete Paredes and Chuck Scott, July 2001
Page Views: 1,637 total · 11/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 21, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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26 Opinions

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Description

Lieback a large, left-facing flake past two bolts which pinches down a bit higher forming a small roof. Clip the 3rd bolt and then fire over the roof (5.11) on slick edges until possible to gain the security of a finger slot. From here climb the right arete/face of the formation (5.9) past two bolts to anchors on a ledge.

Good moves on this route but lacking the continuous nature of the routes further left it's not quite a classic.

Location

Head up past the start of Pistol Pete and Doc's Holiday and then scramble atop a block to reach the start of this route.

Protection

6 bolts, chain anchors

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Photos

Pete starting up Unforgiven (5.11b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Pete starting up Unforgiven (5.11b), Holcomb Va…
 1
Unforgiven (5.11b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Unforgiven (5.11b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
 0
Past the friendly bush and committing crux.
Past the friendly bush and committing crux.
 0
Solid undercling rest at the 3rd bolt.
Solid undercling rest at the 3rd bolt.
 0
I'd like to think it was more of a stalemate than a failure.
I'd like to think it was more of a stalemate th…
 0

8 Comments

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susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.11c
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.11c
Difficult moves with long reaches and committing. Hard for the grade IMO.

~Susan Mar 3, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.11c
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.11c
Ok, tried it again a year later. The thing is still hard getting past the 3rd bolt. Key holds are there but difficult to release to get them without falling. Harder than it looks.

Nonetheless I got the rope to the anchor. Next time, no hanging at the crux.

This route is a classic example on how it only takes one move to dictate the grade. The bottom & top sections are significantly easier to ascend. Jun 1, 2008
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.11
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.11
Tricky bouldery crux, with an annoying dead bush in your face right as you finish the sequence. Battle the remanants of the bush for a move or two with bad feet then it's a stroll to the top. Good route that suffers a bit from its non-continuous nature and malevolent deceased flora. 2/5 stars for the area. Compared to other ratings in the area, I'd say it's on the stiff side, but the area as a whole feels a tad soft, so maybe just call it "5.11". Jun 2, 2008
tom donnelly
san diego
tom donnelly   san diego
If you contrive to stay left of the bush, it adds a bit better climbing on the upper part. Jun 22, 2010
RAZORsharp
Carlsbad CA
RAZORsharp   Carlsbad CA
There used to be a loose as hell, big flake near the anchors with a notorious red x on it.... It is gone. watch for loose/uncleaned lines that are chalked up! Oct 12, 2011
Devin Trafford
  5.11
Devin Trafford  
  5.11
A few near-invisible crimps that lead past the 3rd bolt to a series of committing moves.

If you can make it to the 4th bolt, you've got the route. Jun 26, 2014
Jeff Edge
  5.11b
Jeff Edge  
  5.11b
+1 for staying left of the bush, fun route. Crux feels pretty fair at 11b since its *so* short, even if it is a tricky 1.5 moves! Compared to Mad Season for example which is a lot more sustained at the grade. Nov 29, 2014
dino74
Oceanside, CA
dino74   Oceanside, CA
I knew the first 3 bolts was "easy", so I was a little careless in my climbing. I peeled off before the second bolt and hit the big boulder at the bottom. Luckily, I only bruised my heel. Just keep in mind the belayer is way below you and you'll get more rope stretch than a normal first bolt fall. Jun 26, 2017

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