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Unforgiven
5.11b,
Sport, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 2.6 from 54
votes
FA: Chris Miller, Pete Paredes and Chuck Scott, July 2001
California
> San Bernardino…
> Big Bear Lake Area
> Big Bear North
> Big Bear City Area
> Holcomb Valley…
> Central Pinnacles
> Doc Holliday Wall
Description
Lieback a large, left-facing flake past two bolts which pinches down a bit higher forming a small roof. Clip the 3rd bolt and then fire over the roof (5.11) on slick edges until possible to gain the security of a finger slot. From here climb the right arete/face of the formation (5.9) past two bolts to anchors on a ledge.
Good moves on this route but lacking the continuous nature of the routes further left.
Location
Head up past the start of
Pistol Pete and
Doc's Holiday and then scramble atop a block to reach the start of this route.
Protection
6 bolts, chain anchors
[Hide Photo] Clipping the bolt just past the crux.
[Hide Photo] Pete starting up Unforgiven (5.11b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
[Hide Photo] Solid undercling rest at the 3rd bolt.
[Hide Photo] I'd like to think it was more of a stalemate than a failure.
Joshua Tree
~Susan Mar 3, 2007
Joshua Tree
Nonetheless I got the rope to the anchor. Next time, no hanging at the crux.
This route is a classic example on how it only takes one move to dictate the grade. The bottom & top sections are significantly easier to ascend. Jun 1, 2008
Joshua Tree
san diego
CA
If you can make it to the 4th bolt, you've got the route. Jun 26, 2014
Bend, OR
Oceanside, CA