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Unforgiven

5.11, Sport, 60 ft,  Avg: 2.4 from 23 votes
FA: Chris Miller, Pete Paredes and Chuck Scott, July 2001
California > San Bernardino… > Big Bear Lake Area > Big Bear North > Holcomb Valley… > Central Pinnacles > Doc Holliday Wall

Description

Lieback a large, left-facing flake past two bolts which pinches down a bit higher forming a small roof. Clip the 3rd bolt and then fire over the roof (5.11) on slick edges until possible to gain the security of a finger slot. From here climb the right arete/face of the formation (5.9) past two bolts to anchors on a ledge.

Good moves on this route but lacking the continuous nature of the routes further left it's not quite a classic.

Location

Head up past the start of Pistol Pete and Doc's Holiday and then scramble atop a block to reach the start of this route.

Protection

6 bolts, chain anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pete starting up Unforgiven (5.11b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
[Hide Photo] Pete starting up Unforgiven (5.11b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Unforgiven (5.11b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
[Hide Photo] Unforgiven (5.11b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Past the friendly bush and committing crux.
[Hide Photo] Past the friendly bush and committing crux.
Solid undercling rest at the 3rd bolt.
[Hide Photo] Solid undercling rest at the 3rd bolt.
I'd like to think it was more of a stalemate than a failure.
[Hide Photo] I'd like to think it was more of a stalemate than a failure.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Difficult moves with long reaches and committing. Hard for the grade IMO.

~Susan Mar 3, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Ok, tried it again a year later. The thing is still hard getting past the 3rd bolt. Key holds are there but difficult to release to get them without falling. Harder than it looks.

Nonetheless I got the rope to the anchor. Next time, no hanging at the crux.

This route is a classic example on how it only takes one move to dictate the grade. The bottom & top sections are significantly easier to ascend. Jun 1, 2008
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.11
[Hide Comment] Tricky bouldery crux, with an annoying dead bush in your face right as you finish the sequence. Battle the remanants of the bush for a move or two with bad feet then it's a stroll to the top. Good route that suffers a bit from its non-continuous nature and malevolent deceased flora. 2/5 stars for the area. Compared to other ratings in the area, I'd say it's on the stiff side, but the area as a whole feels a tad soft, so maybe just call it "5.11". Jun 2, 2008
tom donnelly
san diego
[Hide Comment] If you contrive to stay left of the bush, it adds a bit better climbing on the upper part. Jun 22, 2010
RAZORsharp
Carlsbad CA
[Hide Comment] There used to be a loose as hell, big flake near the anchors with a notorious red x on it.... It is gone. watch for loose/uncleaned lines that are chalked up! Oct 12, 2011
Devin Trafford
  5.11
[Hide Comment] A few near-invisible crimps that lead past the 3rd bolt to a series of committing moves.

If you can make it to the 4th bolt, you've got the route. Jun 26, 2014
Jeff Edge
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] +1 for staying left of the bush, fun route. Crux feels pretty fair at 11b since its *so* short, even if it is a tricky 1.5 moves! Compared to Mad Season for example which is a lot more sustained at the grade. Nov 29, 2014
dino74
Oceanside, CA
[Hide Comment] I knew the first 3 bolts was "easy", so I was a little careless in my climbing. I peeled off before the second bolt and hit the big boulder at the bottom. Luckily, I only bruised my heel. Just keep in mind the belayer is way below you and you'll get more rope stretch than a normal first bolt fall. Jun 26, 2017