Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Unforgiven

5.11b, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 54 votes
FA: Chris Miller, Pete Paredes and Chuck Scott, July 2001
California > San Bernardino… > Big Bear Lake Area > Big Bear North > Big Bear City Area > Holcomb Valley… > Central Pinnacles > Doc Holliday Wall

Description

Lieback a large, left-facing flake past two bolts which pinches down a bit higher forming a small roof. Clip the 3rd bolt and then fire over the roof (5.11) on slick edges until possible to gain the security of a finger slot. From here climb the right arete/face of the formation (5.9) past two bolts to anchors on a ledge.

Good moves on this route but lacking the continuous nature of the routes further left.

Location

Head up past the start of Pistol Pete and Doc's Holiday and then scramble atop a block to reach the start of this route.

Protection

6 bolts, chain anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Clipping the bolt just past the crux.
[Hide Photo] Clipping the bolt just past the crux.
Pete starting up Unforgiven (5.11b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
[Hide Photo] Pete starting up Unforgiven (5.11b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Unforgiven (5.11b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
[Hide Photo] Unforgiven (5.11b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Past the friendly bush and committing crux.
[Hide Photo] Past the friendly bush and committing crux.
Solid undercling rest at the 3rd bolt.
[Hide Photo] Solid undercling rest at the 3rd bolt.
I'd like to think it was more of a stalemate than a failure.
[Hide Photo] I'd like to think it was more of a stalemate than a failure.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Difficult moves with long reaches and committing. Hard for the grade IMO.

~Susan Mar 3, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Ok, tried it again a year later. The thing is still hard getting past the 3rd bolt. Key holds are there but difficult to release to get them without falling. Harder than it looks.

Nonetheless I got the rope to the anchor. Next time, no hanging at the crux.

This route is a classic example on how it only takes one move to dictate the grade. The bottom & top sections are significantly easier to ascend. Jun 1, 2008
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.11
[Hide Comment] Tricky bouldery crux, with an annoying dead bush in your face right as you finish the sequence. Battle the remanants of the bush for a move or two with bad feet then it's a stroll to the top. Good route that suffers a bit from its non-continuous nature and malevolent deceased flora. 2/5 stars for the area. Compared to other ratings in the area, I'd say it's on the stiff side, but the area as a whole feels a tad soft, so maybe just call it "5.11". Jun 2, 2008
tom donnelly
san diego
[Hide Comment] If you contrive to stay left of the bush, it adds a bit better climbing on the upper part. Jun 22, 2010
[Hide Comment] There used to be a loose as hell, big flake near the anchors with a notorious red x on it.... It is gone. watch for loose/uncleaned lines that are chalked up! Oct 12, 2011
Devin Trafford
  5.11
[Hide Comment] A few near-invisible crimps that lead past the 3rd bolt to a series of committing moves.

If you can make it to the 4th bolt, you've got the route. Jun 26, 2014
Jeff Edge
Bend, OR
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] +1 for staying left of the bush, fun route. Crux feels pretty fair at 11b since its *so* short, even if it is a tricky 1.5 moves! Compared to Mad Season for example which is a lot more sustained at the grade. Nov 29, 2014
dino74
Oceanside, CA
[Hide Comment] I knew the first 3 bolts was "easy", so I was a little careless in my climbing. I peeled off before the second bolt and hit the big boulder at the bottom. Luckily, I only bruised my heel. Just keep in mind the belayer is way below you and you'll get more rope stretch than a normal first bolt fall. Jun 26, 2017