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Routes in Doc Holliday Wall

Doc's Holiday S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Far Beyond Driven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Loose Women, Loose Rock T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pistol Pete S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Quick on the Draw S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skyline Pillar S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unforgiven S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Chris Miller, September 2001
Page Views: 744 total · 6/month
Shared By: susan peplow on Mar 3, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Found on right hand side of crag and just right of large crack system.


Second route from the right and just next to Loose Women, Loose Rock.


8 bolts, chain anchor


C Miller
C Miller   CA  
This is an independent line left of Loose Women, Loose Rock with it's own set of anchors. It's an ok route, but nothing to get excited about. Mar 3, 2007
Jeff Scofield
Yorba Linda, CA
Jeff Scofield   Yorba Linda, CA
This climb is no longer 10a/b. A Key hand or foot pc fell off and now you must go off route to finish the climb. IMHO and my friends whose a really really good climber this climb is no longer worth trying since you have to finish off route. If you go straight up maybe it's really really hard but above my friend's pay grade and he leads up to 11b... Jul 1, 2013
Jeff Edge  
Thought 10c/d if a hold did break, but I'd believe stiff 10b. also I count 3 routes on this face, there is another route that shares this start and then goes kinda right, felt maybe 5.9 then loose women.. to the right of that. Anybody know anything? Nov 23, 2014
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Jeff, there is some stuff up and right of there - Tombstone Pit which has a few routes (both kinda hard) but best approached from up and around from Claimjumper. Is that what you're thinking of? Nov 24, 2014
Jeff Edge  
No I've done those ones too! There's another route that shares the start with this one. Then to the right is a crack which leads to some funky pockets then to bolts (Loose women, Loose rock, I presume). Then up some boulders to the right is that first 5.8 of Tombstone pit. Might be pretty new? Nov 29, 2014
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Was just there yesterday and there are no new routes on the face, just the existing ones. Perhaps there is some confusion because the start of Far Beyond Driven and Loose Rock, Loose Women are fairly close together, although they quickly diverge and are wholly independent.

Jun 7, 2015
Jeff Scofield
Yorba Linda, CA
Jeff Scofield   Yorba Linda, CA

Thanks for the beta! I'll give it another go this summer!
Jeff Mar 9, 2016
Jack C. Beckley
arcadia ca
Jack C. Beckley   arcadia ca
I would say that this route is a little more run-out then the other routes on this wall! Kinda choosy in the middle as well...i probably won't do this route again! Pistol Pete and Docs holiday are WAYYYY better!! May 30, 2017

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