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Routes in Doc Holliday Wall

Doc's Holiday S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Far Beyond Driven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Loose Women, Loose Rock T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pistol Pete S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Quick on the Draw S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skyline Pillar S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unforgiven S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Craig Britton & Matt Hoch, 1997
Page Views: 174 total, 1/month
Shared By: susan peplow on Mar 3, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Located on the far right side of Doc Holliday wall. Climb past a few horizontal breaks and over a small roof to anchor.

Location

Furthest right route on wall.

Protection

4 bolts, gear to 2.5", chain anchor.

Photos

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mhagny
 
mhagny  
 
I went back a few days later a knocked off some of the looser rock. There's still a couple things that could use a prybar and hammer, tho. Aug 31, 2015
mhagny
 
mhagny  
 
With a little more cleanup -- knocking off the thin/scary/crumbly flakes that you're forced to use -- this would become a stellar route. Very enjoyable lead, but I agree that by Holcomb Valley grades it's a bit stiffer than .9+. Many of the 10b routes are easier than this one. Rock quality down low isn't very good for gear either, but easily overcome by clipping the second bolt on the route to the left. Aug 27, 2015
C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
There is currently a quick link (bail-off) on the 2nd bolt of this route. Jun 7, 2015
Jeff Edge
  5.9+
Jeff Edge  
  5.9+
Definitely tough, think I only counted 2 or 3 bolts though + anchors. Funky moves in the pockets, but kinda cool. Would be a little scared of leading on gear due to the rock quality though. Nov 29, 2014
Jason Partin
San Diego, CA
  5.10a/b
Jason Partin   San Diego, CA
  5.10a/b
Maybe some holds broke off, but this felt much harder than 5.9. The crux felt 5.10b... I was cursing on it, saying, "5.9 My Ass!" and slipped twice, even on top rope, at the transition from climbing straight up to angling right, where the holds were rounded and there's a slight bulge that makes getting feet difficult. Jun 19, 2009
C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
Decent climbing up the pinnacle right of Pistol Pete/Doc's Holiday. I cleaned a lot of the loose rock off this years back, so don't be put off by the name. Also, this route shares the last bolt and anchors with Shoot At Will (5.8). Mar 3, 2007