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Routes in Doc Holliday Wall

Doc's Holiday S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Far Beyond Driven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Loose Women, Loose Rock T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pistol Pete S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Quick on the Draw S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skyline Pillar S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unforgiven S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Chris Miller, Pete Paredes & Chuck Scott, July 2001
Page Views: 11,077 total, 78/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 21, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb the slab passing two bolts (use a long draw or runner on the 2nd bolt) to a sloping ledge below the main face. Clip the third bolt, work up and right via an undercling flake and then continue up the featured face/arete to a small stance at the 7th bolt. Above here the climb changes character (again) and finishes up the exposed slabby arete via delicate, balancy moves.

Location

Starts from ground level 15' right of Quick on the Draw and climbs the right side of a dark slab before heading up the left side of the main face.

Protection

8 bolts, chain anchors
M Meyers
  5.10a
M Meyers  
  5.10a
A very fun route. I liked that the character or the climbing/rock changed a couple times. Would be a mega classic if the climbing wasn't broken up by the ledge. Oct 31, 2017
Beau Skelton
Palm Desert, UT
 
Beau Skelton   Palm Desert, UT
 
Man what a classic. Starts off with a super balancy slab on the bottom with positive crimps and feet. Move up onto the ledge and get ready for some bizarre and unique vertical climbing. Right before the top there is another committing slab section for the win. All around fun and unique moves. Definitely a must do for the area.

Consensus: 10b 4 star! Aug 30, 2015
Slab start to first bolt felt much harder than anything above to me. More sustained and difficult overall than Doc's Holiday to the right. It's a mystery to me how the consensus can be 10a/b for this one and 10d for Doc's Holiday. May 4, 2014
Rob M
Shangri-LA
Rob M   Shangri-LA
I think I'd put it at 10b, but I was pretty tired at that point. It was a bit heady since I'd never been on it, but man what a fun, fun route. I'd rate it as one of the best mid 10s, but Ricochet is pretty darn fun too. Aug 4, 2013
I'm confused because my book says 10c and I felt that was kind of accurate compared to the other climbs at Holcomb. It isn't that this route was hard, but I just think 10a is no consistent with the rest of the climbing in Holcomb. Great climb though
Jul 3, 2012
RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
 
This route has everything. Thin, edgy, under-clings and it kicked my butt even on top rope! Definitely has a couple of crux section for me. The under-cling and the face climb up above. Super fun! Aug 4, 2011
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10b
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10b
Some people think that this is the best 5.10 at Holcomb, but IMHO it gets 3 out of 4 stars because there's the possibility of escape once at the bottom of the upper arete, this is a tad distracting and removes purity from the line. If this is 5.10a then Ricochet is 5.9. Therefore I give this 5.10b as it's crux moves are slightly more demanding technically.

The route has three distinct sections; a slab, a bouldery mid-section, and a steep arete/face, each has it's own crux. People who include Hoof and Mouth in their bouldering circuit at Stoney will barely notice the second section's crux. Jul 3, 2009
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10a/b
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10a/b
I've done this route a few times now and am never disappointed. The slab start, under cling, and thinning arete up top make for varied climbing. Agreed this route is well protected and a great lead.

Nice work. Jun 1, 2008
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b
This is about the longest line in the Pinnacles, and a lot of fun! Definitely has a wide variety of character. The crux is pulling the small headwall just off the ledge. There is a sweet secondary crux up high on the thin slab. As is par for the area, this route is well-protected. Jun 16, 2007