Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: Dave Kennedy, Joan Bertini
Page Views: 4,302 total · 27/month
Shared By: Marc Kajut on Feb 3, 2006 with updates from tom donnelly
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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31 Opinions

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Climb past two bolts to a ledge, transition onto the face and continue up past two more bolts to a rappel station.

Protection

Four (4) bolt protection. Bolt anchor.

GPS Location

+32.82472, -117.05051

Photos

david baker
jamul, ca
 
david baker   jamul, ca
 
This climb is some of the best rock in Mission Gorge. The crux is rocking on to your left foot at the transition from the finger crack onto the face. This climb is located 10 feet to the left of Art the Pissant a.k.a. unknown number 3. See my comments on this climb for directions. Lord of the rings is also shown in some guide books as (unknown # 4). Feb 9, 2006
MAR
  5.10c
MAR  
  5.10c
Nasty fall potential if you miss the 3rd clip. Short folks who don't want to commit to the face before clipping may want to place an extended piece in the finger crack to the right before moving out. This said, the climb is excellent! Have fun. Mar 14, 2011
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
Establishing oneself on the upper face is Very difficult. I am very glad I chose not to lead this one. Jul 14, 2011
I DID fall, AT THE THIRD bolt. I was shoulder-to-bolt, stepped my left foot over and DOWN I went. It's a he'll of a fall. I didn't even think of placing. That's a great idea. I'm taking a #2 and 3 nut next time! Nov 1, 2011
Joan Bertini was the first FA on this route and it was always meant to be a mixed climb, like most of the routs at MG. Jul 14, 2012
Kenny.Haley
  5.10d
Kenny.Haley  
  5.10d
This route is amazing! Hard featured moves but i felt safe the entire time. I don't see much of a fall hazard here as some have said. This is a must climb! Oct 9, 2012
saltlick  
 
Stay out of the finger crack to the right of the bolts for a more sustained climb - as a bonus, I actually found it easier to make the transition to the upper face when approaching from below, rather than from the pod on the right. A stout, enjoyable climb. Jul 15, 2013
Robert Karl
Pasadena, CA
Robert Karl   Pasadena, CA
Thanks for adding the GPS coords Oct 1, 2016
Mackenan Grassi
  5.10c
Mackenan Grassi  
  5.10c
This is a full value climb for being so short. Very sustained and fun movement the whole way up.

I second saltlick on the recommendation for staying out of the finger crack. It's much safer and less awkward to approach the third bolt from directly below. Feb 13, 2017