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Lord of the Rings

5.10c, Sport, 25 ft (8 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 50 votes
FA: Dave Kennedy, Joan Bertini
California > San Diego County > S San Diego County > Mission Gorge > Middle Earth

Description

Climb past two bolts to a ledge, transition onto the face and continue up past two more bolts to a rappel station.

Protection

Four (4) bolt protection. Bolt anchor.

GPS Location

+32.82472, -117.05051

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lord of the Rings - full route
[Hide Photo] Lord of the Rings - full route
Trever making the crux moves on Lord of the Rings.
[Hide Photo] Trever making the crux moves on Lord of the Rings.
Lord of the Rings (5.10c)
[Hide Photo] Lord of the Rings (5.10c)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

david baker
jamul, ca
 
[Hide Comment] This climb is some of the best rock in Mission Gorge. The crux is rocking on to your left foot at the transition from the finger crack onto the face. This climb is located 10 feet to the left of Art the Pissant a.k.a. unknown number 3. See my comments on this climb for directions. Lord of the rings is also shown in some guide books as (unknown # 4). Feb 9, 2006
MAR
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Nasty fall potential if you miss the 3rd clip. Short folks who don't want to commit to the face before clipping may want to place an extended piece in the finger crack to the right before moving out. This said, the climb is excellent! Have fun. Mar 14, 2011
Kyle Wills
Whidbey Island, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Establishing oneself on the upper face is Very difficult. I am very glad I chose not to lead this one. Jul 14, 2011
[Hide Comment] I DID fall, AT THE THIRD bolt. I was shoulder-to-bolt, stepped my left foot over and DOWN I went. It's a he'll of a fall. I didn't even think of placing. That's a great idea. I'm taking a #2 and 3 nut next time! Nov 1, 2011
[Hide Comment] Joan Bertini was the first FA on this route and it was always meant to be a mixed climb, like most of the routs at MG. Jul 14, 2012
Kenny.Haley
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] This route is amazing! Hard featured moves but i felt safe the entire time. I don't see much of a fall hazard here as some have said. This is a must climb! Oct 9, 2012
[Hide Comment] Stay out of the finger crack to the right of the bolts for a more sustained climb - as a bonus, I actually found it easier to make the transition to the upper face when approaching from below, rather than from the pod on the right. A stout, enjoyable climb. Jul 15, 2013
Robert Karl
Pasadena, CA
[Hide Comment] Thanks for adding the GPS coords Oct 1, 2016
Mackenan Grassi
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] This is a full value climb for being so short. Very sustained and fun movement the whole way up.

I second saltlick on the recommendation for staying out of the finger crack. It's much safer and less awkward to approach the third bolt from directly below. Feb 13, 2017
[Hide Comment] The upper section is cool but too short. can definitely be hard to make the move left. Aug 11, 2020
costco hotdog
St. George
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Awesome route, my favorite sport route at the gorge. Really just a 10c crux move with the rest 10a climbing, particularly the upper face. After the crux just go straight up the face towards the anchor, the holds are good. Dec 14, 2020
tom donnelly
san diego
[Hide Comment] After you have a rope on it, you can also do a direct start from the left and go over the roof. Also 10c. Jul 2, 2021
Mason Gatz
San Diego
 
[Hide Comment] Cool dynamic crux. Quality rock for MG standards. Jul 1, 2023