Type: Trad, Sport, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: John Burcham, John Mattson, March 2000
Page Views: 36,216 total · 205/month
Shared By: Dean Hoffman on Feb 1, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Located on Dry Creek Road in west Sedona, Mars Attacks is a neo classic moderate, with a variation and uniqueness of pitches that only the desert can provide. This well traveled line seems to be getting harder over time, as key footholds on the first pitch slowly disappear into the wind. The route starts on the aforementioned slab, on the west side of the buttress, well left of the Big Corner.

Park at the Devil's Bridge TH, and walk 0.2 miles down the road to a very conspicuous and well cairned trail on the east side of the road.

Pitch One, 5.9: This devious slab pitch may be getting harder as the years pass by, but one thing is certain... it's probably going to feel harder than you want it to. Rated anywhere from 5.8 to 5.10 depending on who you talk to, pick your path carefully, and slowly past the bolts to a bolted anchor.

Pitch Two, 5.8-: Classic bolted limestone traverse. Don't forget your camera. Follow the line of bolts, moving a little up, and a little down along the limestone band to a nice belay ledge at the base of the money crack.

Pitch Three, 5.6: Great varied crack climbing over sculpted stone to a bit of an offwidth, and another bolted belay.

Pitch Four, 5.9: Some easier 5.6 terrain off the belay leads you up and over to another engaging slab encounter. Long pitch, bring runners.

RAPPELS: There are two ways of going about it. You can do three rappels with a single 70 meter, or two rappels with two ropes.

WITH TWO 60 METER ROPES:

Rap 1- 115' to three bolt anchor just right of Big Corner.

Rap 2- 170' to the ground.

WITH A 70 METER ROPE:

Rap 1- 115' EXACTLY to a three bolt anchor just right of Big Corner. Watch your ends and be careful, because the raps were not obviously not set up for a 70 meter.

Rap 2- 85' down to a pod in the Big Corner crack with 2 bolts/ 1 pin anchor.

Rap 3- 85' down the choss pitch 1 of Big Corner and the ground.

Protection

Standard Rack up to #4 and about 10 Draws, definitely 2 ropes, 70m is doable but really a hassle.

Photos