Avg: 3.5 from 237 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||John Burcham, John Mattson, March 2000|
|Page Views:||38,729 total · 206/month|
|Shared By:||Dean Hoffman on Feb 1, 2006|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd|
Park at the Devil's Bridge TH, and walk 0.2 miles down the road to a very conspicuous and well cairned trail on the east side of the road.
Pitch One, 5.9: This devious slab pitch may be getting harder as the years pass by, but one thing is certain... it's probably going to feel harder than you want it to. Rated anywhere from 5.8 to 5.10 depending on who you talk to, pick your path carefully, and slowly past the bolts to a bolted anchor.
Pitch Two, 5.8-: Classic bolted limestone traverse. Don't forget your camera. Follow the line of bolts, moving a little up, and a little down along the limestone band to a nice belay ledge at the base of the money crack.
Pitch Three, 5.6: Great varied crack climbing over sculpted stone to a bit of an offwidth, and another bolted belay.
Pitch Four, 5.9: Some easier 5.6 terrain off the belay leads you up and over to another engaging slab encounter. Long pitch, bring runners.
RAPPELS: There are two ways of going about it. You can do three rappels with a single 70 meter, or two rappels with two ropes.
WITH TWO 60 METER ROPES:
Rap 1- 115' to three bolt anchor just right of Big Corner.
Rap 2- 170' to the ground.
WITH A 70 METER ROPE:
Rap 1- 115' EXACTLY to a three bolt anchor just right of Big Corner. Watch your ends and be careful, because the raps were not obviously not set up for a 70 meter.
Rap 2- 85' down to a pod in the Big Corner crack with 2 bolts/ 1 pin anchor.
Rap 3- 85' down the choss pitch 1 of Big Corner and the ground.