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Routes in The Fin

Big Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lost in Space T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Mars Attacks T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Planet T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Spaceballs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: John Burcham, John Mattson
Page Views: 4,069 total · 28/month
Shared By: markguycan on Apr 23, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Description

possible to lead the initial grunge 5.8pitch from the ground but preferred to rap in from Mars Attacks. Beautiful dihedral with finger locks and liebacking, crux is the endurance + a bit harder near the top, have fun!

Location

located east of Mars Attacks (along rap from MA) and just right of Fear of a Red Planet

Protection

easily top roped while descending Mars Attacks, otherwise a triple set of tcu's should get you up.

Photos

Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
 
Bill Lundeen   Lee Vining, CA
 
Did this awesome route in late 90s/early 2000s; was fun to repeat so many years later. It's harder than it used to be! (Has nothing to do with being 60 now...). I agree with Dave: first pitch is GOOD: not loose or bad rock, well protected 5.9 Sedona adventure climbing. Very sunny; great on a cool blue sky day.

Pitch 2 is quite Creek-like. Great jams on 90%, short physical wide section, and finger-to-tips crux right at the end that protects well with 00, 0, & #1 TCUs. Nov 14, 2016
Dave Spies
Sedona, AZ
 
Dave Spies   Sedona, AZ
 
I think pitch one is fun/ interesting climbing and pretty clean. Didn't knock anything off or find anything loose. Pitch two is pure gold. Double bd cam .2 to 3 and one #4 is plenty. We did not venture into the land of aid above pitch 2. Has anyone freed the third pitch? Nov 13, 2016
First ascent Tim Maloney and Michael Hill 11/93 Jul 6, 2016
Kelsey Sheely
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kelsey Sheely   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Got stuck behind a party of 7 trying to climb Mars Attacks and decided to go do this one from the bottom. The first pitch was completely reasonable by Sedona standards. There are a few loose blocks, but nothing too scary and not nearly as runout as I thought it would be. The second pitch is great! No need for big gear as there is a bolt protecting the wide spot. May 25, 2015
Ryan Z
  5.10+
Ryan Z  
  5.10+
This is a sweet climb! I had singles of all the hand sizes up to #4, doubles of fingers, and having a green and red C3 are what protected the crux for me. Didn't need the #4 let alone a #5, there is bolt right there. Got the onsight! Apr 7, 2013
Awesome addition to Mars Attacks. It protects very well. Bring a #5, extra small pieces, and nuts if you want to sew it up. Apr 27, 2011
jayci
Flagstaff
 
jayci   Flagstaff
 
Really nice pitch! I felt the wide pod was the crux. The thin climbing happens right after it but there are great feet and crimps on the face. The first pitch is a bit spicy. Jan 28, 2011
Justin York
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10c
Justin York   Phoenix, AZ
  5.10c
To add to Bennett's comment, you can rap directly to the top of Big Corner's anchors, TR the bad boy, and pulling the ropes from the bottom was fine. Would be a well-protected lead although the rock is suspect on the first pitch. Second pitch is awesome and varied, with ample rests to eliminate any pump factor. Apr 11, 2010
Bennett
Southern California
Bennett   Southern California
top roped this yesterday with two 70 meter ropes passing the knot for 180 foot pitch. awesome and varied... first pitch a bit loose and a bit run 5.9 if it were lead. Second would be sweet to lead and would protect well, has a bolt at the wide crux which is nice for directional when tr-ing. bolt anchors at about 120 feet from the ground for this pitch. all sizes in about 60 feet of climbing for pitch 2, bigger than fist to tips...

some big suspect blocks in a couple of spots to try to avoid on pitch one, and one i recall one just before the upper crux on pitch 2... full sun in the afternoon.

the rap anchors at the top of Big Corner are different than the rap for Mars Attacks, 30 feet and diagnally down to climbers left. pulling ropes might be hard if you rap to Big Corner anchor first... Dec 7, 2008
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
This was a fantastic climb that I recommend doing after climbing Mars Attacks. Less than vert corner that will be in the shade in the afternoon, is still tough and cruxes at the top. Various crack widths and some crimps on the face make this corner easier than your pure crack outing. The dirty first pitch didn't look worth doing at all. Sep 17, 2006

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