Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dean Hoffman, John Lynch 12/06
Page Views: 6,040 total · 28/month
Shared By: Dean Hoffman on Dec 12, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

These pitches are short but very quality. All were led onsight ground up.

Pitch 1: Start in corner almost to the top of the gully on the backside of Lost in Space. Climb, stemming and jamming, up to small ledge and two bolts tucked up underneath the roof. Cool belay spot with light peeking through from the other side of the tower. Fun pitch with crux down low.

Pitch 2: Holy smokes, here comes the business! Stem and fist out of the corner and through the monster roof crack; keep an eye out for the key feet on either side. When you can't stem any further, commit across and pull the corner and another 10 ft to the two-bolt anchor just beneath "The Egg". We found this pitch to be very exciting, and exposed! Think BIG! Very short pitch but rope drag is nasty. Also P1 and P2 could possibly be run together, but breaking it up is advised. Also Pitch 2/3 could possibly be linked, but again rope drag is an issue

Pitch 3: THE EGG! From the belay, head out left getting good gear and stemming up onto a dirty foot rail. Work the steep crack until it pinches off and pull the sandy lip. Exposed, and spicy may the Schwartz be with you! This is probably the crux of the route!Stand up on the sandy ledge and get some gear. From the ledge above "The Egg", work up the offwidth and into some mixed cracks. Look for the anchors up and left. Sweet! We looked at the right crack under the Egg, and opted for the left. Soooo......

From the top anchors, double-rope back to the packs.

This would be a great addition to a day including Mars Attacks and Big Corner, throw this in to round it all out and summit a true spire. It is also possible to TR the last pitch of Lost in Space from the top anchors. Definitely worth doing.

Location Suggest change

This route climbs the opposite side of Burcham and Kenny's Lost in Space. Approach as you would for Mars Attacks and head up canyon another 5 minutes. Scope the Beta pics here to get on the right track. Look for a marked (or unmarked) gully and bushwhack almost to the notch. Keep an eye on the right for the start of Spaceballs, off a low ledge.

Also keep an eye out for "The Egg" about halfway up.

Good luck and let us know what you think.

Protection Suggest change

Single Set of TCUs
Doubles from .75 BD to #4 BD (Old BD sizes)
1 #5 BD
All Belays have two bolts
2 60m ropes
(EDITED 70 meter will apparently not reach, sorry!)