Bill Wright   5.9-

[Hide Comment] This route felt hard and exciting for 5.8. The first pitch looks easy, but there is a difficult slab move on this pitch. The next pitch, the traverse seemed to be the crux and it is a bit heady and a bit pumpy, so very, very cool. Great photo potential here. I think the route feels more like a 5.9 on the first two pitches. The 3rd pitch is a super cool, very unique and fun crack/chimney pitch. Feb 8, 2006

claytown Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] Mars Attacks is a great climb! From where you park your car, walk back to the road and then head north for about 350 yards to a small wash on your right. Take this wash to the path that will get you past the first little cliff to the shelf. You will approach the climb from the West. The first pitch is harder than 5.8. I would say 10 slab easily. I heard that a key foot nub wore off from repeated use. The second pitch is a classic limestone band traverse around the prow. Third pitch is a full rope with wide gear placements. Not to worry, there are plentiful huge jugs that make this pitch a cruise. The fourth pitch is a crack to slab combination. Make sure you traverse right to the other set of anchors for your rappel!! This rap will put you right over Big Corner, which is another great climb [10c/d corner]!!! Sep 17, 2006

Sean Thomes New Windsor, NY

[Hide Comment] I'm not going to get into the technical aspects of this route. Its a must do if your out in Sedona. The third pitch had to be my all time favorite. It was a great chance to practice that crack climbing that I've been avoiding. I can't say enough good things about this climb. Oct 23, 2006

Seth Dyer

[Hide Comment] FA John Burcham AND John Mattson. Dec 14, 2006

mattso   5.8+

[Hide Comment] Mars was a great route all around. It contains a wide variety of climbing disciplines. The first slab was nerve racking to a airy traverse. The 3rd pitch was aesthetically beautiful as well as one of my favorite cracks. Bomber hand jams, to fist to chimney, stellar at the least. If you plan on rapping the route, bring two ropes. You can rap big corner with one rope no problem. The anchors for the second rap are at the very end of a 60 meter rope. They are hidden below a bulge and you will not see them until almost on top of them. A true 100 Ft. rap. Feb 4, 2007

Spahle Mesa, Arizona   5.8 PG13

[Hide Comment] Best climb I've ever done. This route has everything. Slab, traverse, crack and off width. Thanks to Jodie and the rest of the crew for taking my girlfriend and I on this amazing climb. May 7, 2007

Ronnie Miller

[Hide Comment] I have done this route several times over the last 3-4 years and it doesn't seem any harder than 5.7 or 5.8. If you aren't good at slab technique the 1st pitch will feel harder, but that is because of your skill, not because the climb is difficult. It is a great route. Ronnie Sep 13, 2007

J. Thompson denver, co

[Hide Comment] I rope soloed this in early Oct. I'd like to comment on the first pitch rating. After reading the varied opinions on the rating of pitch 1 I paid close attention to the difficulties and I climbed it twice(because I was soloing). I intentionally climbed 2 different "lines" at the crux section. I found one of them to be 5.9 and one to be 5.10-. The lines I took were both on par with the bolt location's and wear to the rock indicating that others had climbed there. Is there an easier path farther from the bolts? Possibly...but the "line" that is bolted is in the 5.9/5.10- range. It is very well protected however! I've put my time in climbing hard slabs in a wide variety of local's and that's my 2 cents. Also this is a very good route. The 2nd and 3rd pitch's are very classic! Oct 24, 2007

Aimee McRae Bend   5.9

[Hide Comment] Great route! I felt like the 3rd pitch was the crux though. Pulling through the little bulge with only the offwidth crack and no holds was quite exciting for me. Then I ran out of gear and had to run it out to the anchors from there- don't place all your big pieces before the bulge! I felt the first pitch was about 5.9 (Sedona 5.8), no harder, but could seem harder if there was no chalk. May 6, 2008

Brian Boyd Flagstaff, AZ

[Hide Comment] There are more bolts on the first and fourth pitches than on the route description: I think 5 on P1, and maybe 6 on P4. Both slab pitches are well bolted. My partner and I had flashed 5.10 slab at Pinnacle Peak earlier in the week, a place not known for its soft ratings. We've climbed 5.9 and 5.10 sandstone slab/face as well. The slab pitches didn't seem a whole lot easier here. Regardless of the rating, Mars Attacks is an awesome route. Jan 26, 2009

Steve Skelton Lyttelton, New Zealand

[Hide Comment] Just did it again, for the fourth time! We were a little short on time so I ran the first and second pitch together without too much rope drag and with only one double length runner. Didn't seem to make it any more dangerous and made for one hell of a first pitch! Apr 11, 2009

John Farrell Phoenix, AZ

[Hide Comment] Regarding the rappel; I don't think you can hit the midway anchors with one 60m rope, two ropes are required. We did a single line rappel and the center marking for our 60m rope was about 15'-ish above the anchors. A 70m will be VERY close. The second rappel is right around 190' from those midway anchors. Like mentioned below, the midway anchors are hard to spot until you're almost on them. You'll see the anchors for a climb, Big Corner way on the left. First time I was going down it, I was heading to those griping about how far out of plumb they were and pretty much ran right on top of the midway anchors. Fun route! The 3rd pitch great! Oct 19, 2009

Richard Fernandez Flagstaff, AZ   5.9

[Hide Comment] I must admit, the beginning of P2 and bulge crux on P3 of Streaker Spire seemed harder than anything on this route. A fun climb but everything is there as far as features go, you just have to know how to use them. Nov 11, 2009

Craig Randleman Bend, Or   5.10a

[Hide Comment] "5.8, my ass!," said my wife on pitch 1. "5.8, my ass!," I thought on pitch 4. Seriously, I've done some slab climbing and that 4th pitch through the well-protected slab section seemed quite a bit harder than 5.8. Ah well. And I second a two rope rappel. We were on a 70m rope and it was a testy three-rappel descent. But the climbing was AWESOME!!! Nov 16, 2009

roman d State College, PA

[Hide Comment] I found the approach pretty straightforward. Even though I was off the trail, it still only took ~30min Mar 17, 2010

Marcy - Tucson/DMR   5.9-

[Hide Comment] I've always thought of the approach as straight forward and moderate; 30-45 minutes depending on your hiking speed. Mar 17, 2010

ryan dillon Tucson, AZ.

[Hide Comment] I thought the approach was awesome. Beats the hell out of these S. AZ. approachs!! Mar 17, 2010

Ryan Myers Tempe, AZ

[Hide Comment] Amazing climb..great route and beautiful scenery Pitch's 2&3 are by far the best...Great varied climbing throughout May 15, 2010

Jon Ruland Tucson, AZ

[Hide Comment] pitch 3 is one of the best pitches i have ever done. May 17, 2010

Ted Smith Huachuca City, AZ   5.9+ PG13

[Hide Comment] I believe the first pitch was once 5.8, but sandstone wears with traffic, and there are crux moves that require incredible finesse using palm and finger friction on smooth surface to keep the feet from slipping off. For that reason, I would call it 5.9+ on the first pitch. The second pitch has one bulge move that requires some hunting and a long reach to get a bomber hand hold to secure a 5.8 move. Some may not have the wingspan to make this connection, bumping the difficulty to 5.9 or so, due to lack of good solid hand holds at a crucial point. Pitch 3 has one bulge that is a bit tough, near the top, 5.8, and Pitch 4 is definitely 5.8 with thin slab moves just above the bolt--but exposure makes it exciting. I give it a PG-13 due to the potential of pendulum and getting stranded on the 2nd pitch. Ascenders and planning ahead will prevent a crisis, because it is a long way down at the midpoint of the traverse--my guess is at least 150 ft. Awesome climb!!! Sep 27, 2010

Steve Pulver Williston, ND   5.8

[Hide Comment] If you left the two fixed ropes on the rappel, I was the one that removed them, and left them coiled near the base. If you were planning to solo it and rap, I guess you're going to have to down climb. Oct 18, 2010

Steven Wolpert

[Hide Comment] Thanks Steve Pulver - those are my ropes. I was rapping in the dark and forgot that I had tied a knot in the end of both ropes so my partner didn't rap off the ends on the first rap, but I forgot to untie the one knot before I pulled the ropes - so the knot jammed at the top bolts and I had to unite the ropes and go single rope to the ground, leaving up both. I'll try to get there this Saturday thanks again Oct 19, 2010

Jeff Strauss Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] Can you rappel off of the anchors after pitch 2 if needed? 1 rope or 2? Does anybody know? Nov 21, 2010

Marcy - Tucson/DMR   5.9-

[Hide Comment] Jeff, yes you can rap at the end of pitch 2. I have friends that did exactly that after the 2nd on the traverse took a nasty fall when a hold broke. I do not know if 2 ropes are needed; my guess would that they used 2 since they had them. Nov 21, 2010

Fitz Fitzgerald Rogers, KY   5.8+

[Hide Comment] Make sure you hike the Fin trailhead located on the right side of the road(obviously) just before a three car pull-out on the left about .15mi past the Devil's bridge parking lot. Follow a small to increasingly more prominent wash up and eventually veering left following trail/carins up to the base of the wall. The Sedona guidebook shows the Devil's Bridge trail to be comparable and wrapping around to the base of Big Corner. It is/does not! First Pitch was maybe 5.8 back in the day when there were some features for your feet. Now it's a geko 5.11 smear-fest. I went left into the small seam after the third bolt at the white band of rock and climbed up to the limestone band where you can place a #1 cam and traverse right to the anchors(seemed runout 5.8). Second pitch was epically outstanding!! Third pitch was a long ~160' awesome trad pitch! Fourth pitch, couldn't do. It was getting dark. Try getting to the top of the fourth pitch to rap! Rapping from the third was a rope eating machine and turned into a mini epic. Second and third pitch were worth going back for!! Dec 14, 2010

Darren Mabe   5.9+

[Hide Comment] fun route. very clean and well traveled. I'll add a few notes: Approach: i should have read these comments, to echo Clayton's post above, the trail we finally found starts approx 0.2 mi down the road from the Devils Bridge TH (~360 paces for me). This is a well cairned flip-flop trail that brings you in to the far left (west) side of the formation. P1. ol'skool 5.9+ friction (bolts, one piece to get to anchors) P2. exhilarating 5.7 with a couple of 5.8 step-arounds (use runners) P3. 5.6 wild romp (130') P4. awkward 5.6 crack to smear-ific 5.9 Rack: stoppers 9-13, hybrid aliens, C4s .5-4, (double 1-3) 10 runners/draws, 0ne camera for that pitch 2 photo that everyone else has. Raps: we climbed with one 70m rope, and got down in THREE somewhat acrobatic raps: Rap #1: 115' exactly to 3 bolt-anchors just right of Big Corners. Knot the ends. Pay attention to your left. Rap #2: about 85' to 2bolts/1pin anchors in pod of P2 of Big Corner crack. Necessitates a leftward rappell/pendulum, but huecos/foot-ledge to pull you in. Rap #3: about 85' down chossy P1 of Big Corner to Ground. whee! Mar 6, 2011

JimmyK Scottsdale, AZ   5.8

[Hide Comment] Sunday, March 13, 2011 - Partner left my Yellow #2 Cam on pitch 3. The party of 2 behind us (one guy from MN, the other guy lives in Tucson) cleaned it. Please contact me at (928)853-2124, I will meet you in Tucson to pick up. Thanks! Mar 29, 2011

J tot Tempe, AZ   5.8

[Hide Comment] Challenging and runout slab on pitch one and a little on pitch three. Be wary if you are a 5.8 or 5.9 climber and you are attempting this. Apr 18, 2011

Sam S Boulder, CO   5.8+

[Hide Comment] Gerat route! Rock quality was pretty good throughout (a bit sandy on the traverse) and the position is great. I thought the slabs were acurate at about 5.8. They are both pretty dang low angle and are just insecure (with bolts every 4 ft). Dropped a brand new ATC Guide from the top, still feeling that loss! Jul 17, 2011

Greg Malloure Prescott Az   5.8

[Hide Comment] Has anyone climbed to the true summit past the forth pitch anchors? Jul 21, 2011

J CAV

[Hide Comment] Traverse is pretty fun. 3rd pitch is awesome, really cool rock, some awesome formations. This is my favorite pitch i've climbed so far. Bring a headlamp! learned this the hard way. Sep 26, 2011

David Harding Albuquerque, NM

[Hide Comment] Please be super careful starting off the bolted belay going into the 4th pitch. Head right a few feet for the dihedral instead of the friction straight up, which has a soon-to-come-off giant flake of loose rock (someone probably needs to pry this off when nobody is below). The growing crack indicates this will come off very soon! Jan 3, 2012

Kieran Smiley

[Hide Comment] At the midway rappel anchors(if you are double rope rappelling) the bolt on the right is close to becoming a spinner, still usable but maybe will be a problem in not too distant future. Maybe there is a bolt setting savvy climber out there who is planning to climb Mars Attacks soon and could fix it?? pretty please?? Jan 16, 2012

D Stevenson Escalange, UT   5.8 PG13

[Hide Comment] I didn't see what all the fuss was about on the first pitch, pretty easy slab climbing with a couple difficult moves that are well protected. I definitely felt like the 2nd pitch was the crux-- exposure is excellent, and it's definitely somewhere you wouldn't want to fall on! Pulling around the bulge adds in a ton of excitement. Pitch 3 is fun an varied, leading to an easy 4th pitch with a kind of sketchy runout to the anchors. Watch out for the anchors on rappel, too, you won't be able to see them until you're on top of them. Great intro to climbing down in Sedona, but make sure you have some multipitch experience under your belt first. Nov 27, 2012

Andy Laakmann Bend, OR   5.9

[Hide Comment] You can still drive up the dirt road to the trail, you just want a high clearance vehicle - 4WD can't hurt (we had a rented standard jeep SUV). Alternately use the new trail head on Dry Creek road and walk in about a mile. The climber's trail behind about 0.2 miles down the road from the Devil's Bridge Trailhead. It is a VERY well cairned trail that skirts the approach cliffs to the left and then cuts right to the climb. Rack: medium to big nuts, single set of small cams, doubles #0.75-#3. Just make sure to save a #2 and #3 for the crux bulge of P3. I brought #4 and didn't need it. Raps were very straightforward. From the top anchor, move to the rap anchor (lookers right). Two double rope raps get you down. I was aiming for the anchor in the Big Corner, and then stumbled upon the actual rap anchor about 30' right of it. There is absolutely nothing PG about this route. The first bolt is high off the ground, but super easy climbing. Apr 24, 2013

TarzanR6 Las Vegas Nevada

[Hide Comment] We rapped I'm the dark last night and stranded two ropes on the second anchors (rap stations?)... if anyone is out here this weekend or soon and either unties our ropes or collects them, please send me message or comment (will provide bounty $ if you end up bringing toflagstaff or sedona areas. Thanks Overall: 4 stellar pitches! Oct 5, 2013

SRING

[Hide Comment] Samsonite, we grabbed your ropes from the route on Wednesday the 23rd and brought them up to Flagstaff. They'll be waiting for you at Babbitt's Backcountry to pick up anytime. Ask somebody at the desk for them, they will be in the back. If anybody asks you about it tell them to ask Joel or Sarah about them. Oct 25, 2013

Robbie Brown the road   5.9+

[Hide Comment] Darren Wrote- "Rack: stoppers 9-13, hybrid aliens, C4s .5-4, (double 1-3) 10 runners/draws, 0ne camera for that pitch 2 photo that everyone else has." Darren, i know the offsets are cool but give it a break man. This is sedona 5.8 your telling people to bring them on... Nov 12, 2013

j mo n az   5.9

[Hide Comment] m.youtube.com/watch?v=cyLdt… Nov 15, 2013

Micah K Denver, Co

[Hide Comment] Ive only been able to climb the first two pitches so far, how does the last slab compare with the first? Jan 5, 2014

j mo n az   5.9

[Hide Comment] That block above p3 belay moved inches when I stepped on it. Don't step on it and don't put a cam in there! Keep your rope from behind it by placing first piece high, and running it long. Jan 11, 2014

MacM Tucson/Preskitt, AZ

[Hide Comment] I realize there are already a TON of comments and various bits of info scattered throughout them, but here are a few things I did not get out of them that would have been helpful. - Each belay is bolted with screw-lock chain links. - (going from above) It is possible to rap from the top of 1st OR 2nd pitch to the ground WITH A 70 METER ROPE. - It is possible to rap from the top of the 3rd pitch to the 2nd WITH A 70 METER ROPE. - 3rd pitch is crazy weird/awesome eats up #2-#4 C4's. wish I had 3 #3's. I DO NOT recommend rapping the route to get back to terra firma, but instead do take the actual rappel route. This is just-in-case information that may be useful to some. -Mac Feb 3, 2014

Max Dismukes El Paso, TX   5.9 PG13

[Hide Comment] Great route. Every pitch is fun. I think the runout to the first bolt on pitch one warrants a PG13, its not too hard but slabby and a little tenuous. I want to second comments about the huge block right where you stand to belay at the top of P3...very wiggly, be careful. Feb 7, 2014

Suzanne Wilson Placentia, California

[Hide Comment] What a great day and great route. This was our second ever route in Sedona, the first being the Regular Route on Queen Victoria. Felt the quality of rock was much better on Mars Attacks. We climbed with a 70 meter rope. Not a problem but as previous commenters pointed out, there is little rope to spare (about 6' unstretched rope) on the first rap. As for the slab on pitch 1, we climb a lot of slab in SoCal, so 5.9 seemed about right, probably 10- if you got straight up from bolt rather than stepping right, then up. Mar 22, 2014

Tom Robinson San Diego/ Denver   5.8+

[Hide Comment] What a beautiful climb. One thing about the route description. The third pitch seemed harder than 5.6 to me, I think pitch three was just as difficult as pitch 2. Feb 24, 2015

Jeff O Washington D.C.

[Hide Comment] First two pitches can be led without trad gear. Simul-rapped on a 70 and had plenty to spare on the first rap. To get to the Devil's Bridge Trailhead, a high clearance vehicle and most likely 4-wheel drive is REQUIRED. Mar 24, 2015

Micah K Denver, Co

[Hide Comment] A very fun climb. I don't think there is any pg-13 at all. I would also say the pitches are more like this: p1: 5.9 or 5.10 (depending on how good at slab you are) p2: 5.8 p3: 5.8 (easy until the offwidth/squeeze at the top) p4: 5.7/8 (The upper slab is much easier then p1) Also the run out at the top that people keep mentioning is no big deal. You can literally hike up it. Apr 4, 2015

Chuck Jones Phoenix, AZ   5.9

[Hide Comment] Info as: 7/5/2015 All belays are bolted. Gear Needed: P1: 6 QDs - 5.8 P2: 8 QDs - 5.7 P3: Standard Rack - 5.9+ P4: Standard Rack, use runners - 5.7 Great route, P3 is the business. Rap: Used 70 meter and simul rapped. Definitely tie a knot in the ends. 3 raps needed. Jul 11, 2015

lloyd

[Hide Comment] P3: Standard Rack - 5.9+ Not a crack climber? (3rd pitch is no more than your standard 5.8) Jul 13, 2015

Nate Young Phoenix

[Hide Comment] Lloyd. Crack climbing is relative to hand size so someones 5.8 could definitely be someone else's 5.9+. Jul 20, 2015

lloyd

[Hide Comment] Thanks for the climbing lesson Nate. I guess we just better get rid of all ratings then, because all of them are relatively subjective and probably based on the finger size, strength, ape index, body proportions, height and weight of the climbers who establish some sort of consensus. My crack climber comment had more to do with the line about P3 being the "business". P3 is a lovely steep, mostly stemming pitch with a little bit of awkward at the top. I cite the fact that there are many comments above that seem to reflect this same opinion, and I don't see even one saying the pitch is hideously underrated at 5.8. Heck, one guy even says it's 5.6. I guess it's only valid if Wiley says it's 5.9+ and not when I say it ain't? Nobody even told me I lost my right to have an opinion. Bummer. Jul 21, 2015

Jose Marmolejo

[Hide Comment] Yo!! So unfortunately while climbing Mars attacks in Sedona my climbing buddies and I got a rope stuck (probably somewhere on the third pitch) If anyone would be down to go and recover it, you shall be repaid with many many refreshing and delicious adult beverages of your choice. my number is (520)5760220 P.S. do not skip the last rappel station. (that is how my rope got stuck) Jan 24, 2016

Joshua Munoz Honolulu, HI

[Hide Comment] Yes, Nicholas Withems directions are accurate. If you try the approach per the Sedona guide book you'll be bushwacking more and you have to climb up some difficult slab portions (portions you won't want to down climb in the dark). Feb 22, 2016

AJay H

[Hide Comment] I used a guide books beta which rated it a 5.8. Honestly I believe the route has earned a higher rating than that over the years because key holds are missing. Full rack up to 2.5" should be more than enough. Bring runners. Approach- Park at the devils bridge dirt parking lot and walk another 100 meters down the road. There is a well cairned climber trail leading the the bottom of the fin. 1- The first pitch is a gradual slab that is virtually an entire smear. The first bolt is about 25 ft up and is why it has earned the rating PG13. Send your tallest man and it isn't an issue. If you're under 6ft tall the last move is riskier. It is possible to do the first 2 pitches as one. 1st pitch is very well protected by bolts once you reach the first one. It would but much safer if there was one more bolt at the bottom. 2- The second horizontal traverse is just as precarious to clean as to lead due to the nature of horizontal climbing. 7 bolts to another belay ledge. 3 - 3rd pitch is the classic one, a crack. It is well protected if you are confident in your trad placement. There are 3 roofs to pull, the 3rd one being the crux. After the 3rd roof there is another 10 feet to bolts on the left. 4 - This pitch has easy roof, after 2 or 3 pieces you reach a line of bolts. After 4 bolts there is a 30 foot unprotected run out up an easy slab. Only difficulty here is rope drag. 2 bolts End of route. Rappell: Traverse right for 20 feet to a rappel station. 120 feet down to a thin rap station. Possible with 70m but very close. Suggested two 60m ropes. Another two rope rappel and you're on the ground. Feb 26, 2016

Derek Field Nevada   5.9

[Hide Comment] Gonna chime in on the pitch-by-pitch discussion. One more opinion can't hurt. P1: Tenuous slab with cruxy moves between bolts. First 25-ft protects with small cams in shallow right-facing corner. (5.9) P2: Full-scenic-value juggy limestone traverse that might feel a tad harder for those of us with T-Rex arms. (5.7) P3: Gorgeous sculpted stembox. Bring a single rack of cams to 3". (5.8) P4: Crimps and mantles on high sandy slab, muuuch easier than first pitch. (5.7) Unquestionably one of the finest moderates in Sedona. Oct 10, 2016

Topher Dabrowski Portland, OR

[Hide Comment] My throw in for the grade would be 5.9 for pitch 1, otherwise the other pitches had nothing harder than some 5.8 climbing. As far as gear goes I would skip the #4 Camalot and take an extra #2 and #3 instead. I took doubles from .5 - 3 and a 4 and would have rather had the following: 0.5-1.0 Camalots triple 2 & 3 Camalots No nuts required 8-10 2' runners 1 x 70m rope We parked on Dry Creek Road since the Dry Creek Vista trail head parking (0.3mi after the turn) was full. Note that the Devils Bridge TH parking is only accessible by higher clearance vehicles and 4x4 or AWD would be highly recommended. From Dry Creek Road it took us 50 minutes to the base of the route. Follow the pavement up towards Dry Creek Vista TH parking (restrooms here) for 0.3mi. Continue straight thru the gate and onto the unmaintained road for another 1.1mi towards Devils Bridge TH. Continue past the turn for Devils Bridge TH and go about 0.2mi further. Find a well used trail on the right and follow it into a wash. Continue up the wash and well used trail as it climbs up towards the route in 0.5mi Nov 20, 2016

Justin Headley Tucson   5.9 PG13

[Hide Comment] The Devil's Bridge trailhead in the route description is the 4WD pulloff that's over a mile up the dirt road. If you don't have a 4WD car, you need to park at the Dry Creek Trailhead and hike up the road. That makes total hiking time about an hour and 15 minutes to the start of the route, which is on the RIGHT side of the Fin (when looking straight at it). The traverse is exhilarating, but I'd recommend you and your partner both know how to ascend a rope if either of you fall. Not sure you'd get back on otherwise. Apr 9, 2017

BRZ Arizona, Tucson   5.9+ PG13

[Hide Comment] Lost of good information already commented. But I wanted to note the runout to first bolt and last anchor are heads up, but easier climbing. Pitch 2 and 3 are excellent! I’ve climbed a lot of slab in the stronghold which isn’t known for soft ratings either and my initial impression of the first pitch was 5.10 but I could of miss read the crux. Jun 3, 2019

Andy Ban CO 5.9+

[Hide Comment] Really fun and varied climb. Stays in the shade until 11am in November. The third pitch stays shaded for much longer. Took us an hour from the Dry Creek trailhead. The first pitch felt 5.10 slab. Opening moves are easy, the PG13 rating is uncalled for. However, it's going to get even smoother and harder over time so I'll call it desert 5.9+. Respect the plus! Second pitch is super cool, but a little spooky. It kept my attention the entire time. Third pitch is just plain fun. Eats up gear. Did not need to place a BD #4 or #5 but could have. Forth pitch isn't filler, but not as incredible as 2-3. No problem rapping with one 70m rope. There are anchors at 115 feet.... You just don't see it until you are there. Enjoy! Nov 14, 2019

Michael Schneiter Glenwood Springs, CO

[Hide Comment] We found the approach for Mars Attacks really difficult to find and evidently we weren't the only ones. I uploaded a GPS track. Once on Forest Service Road you can find the approach by continuing on the road for another .37 mile from the Devils Bridge Trailhead. On the right you'll find a dead pine tree that has been cut down. Ideally you'll see some cairns. Take this faint climbers trail into the wash and follow the wash where you should see more cairns and the trail will improve as you go higher up. Nov 29, 2019

John Knight Sedona   5.9 PG13

[Hide Comment] Approach - a bit tricky to find the start of the trail. It's about .4 miles on the right after you pass the Devil's Bridge 4WD parking area. If you don't see cairns, you're not on the right trail. It's a bit tricky to find but will be worth it to get on the right path. Maybe 1 to 1.5 hours from paved tourist parking area. P1 - 5.9/10a - 80' - yes the first bolt is pretty high but the climbing is relatively easy to that bolt. Help boost your confidence getting to bolt 1 by placing small gear in the crack to the far left of bolt 1. The slab is getting a bit slippery in spots, hence the change in rating from 5.8 to 5.9+. The bolts are properly placed right at the tricky moves so don't sweat the runout. Bring some small gear to move through limestone band. 2 bolt belay. P2 - 5.8ish? - 70' - i hate traverses and don't really know how to rate them. The traverse is a bit spooky but the bolts are reasonably spaced and can be supplemented with small pro if desired. 2 bolt belay. P3 - 5.9 - 160' - I used triples in the #2 & #3 range, a #4 and could have placed a #5 if I had one (optional). Mostly larger gear but need a few smaller pieces. This is a long pitch so place gear sparingly on the easy parts. Lots of great holds and lots of varied crack, OW, Chimney, and stemming. This pitch makes the climb worthwhile. 2 bolt belay. P4 - 5.9 - 140 - starts in an easy crack then moves to bolted slab. Not steep but pretty devoid of holds. I thought this was just as hard as P1. If you led P1, this pitch will feel pretty similar. Need medium gear in crack at start to 5 bolts. 2 bolt belay. Descent - stay on belay and head right about 30' to top of BIG Corner. We used 2 ropes to rap. I think you could rap w/70m but be careful. The mid-point anchor is 3 bolts. 1 spinner and 2 bolts are those chunky Metolius rap hangers. It was really hard to pull the rope. Next party headed up there, please bring some quicklinks to attach to the rap hangers. Great route, great adventure. Not for a beginning 5.9 leader. It's a bit "heads-up" in spots. Enjoy! Feb 3, 2020

Tracy Woodburn Full Time RVer

[Hide Comment] P1 & P2 fully bolted, P3 no bolts, P4 first '15 needs a couple of pieces of pro the rest is bolted. P4 last bolt to belay is slab for about 40'. The descent is easy w/ a 70m rope, 3 repels May 3, 2020

MikeDee Dickinson

[Hide Comment] 5.9+ is accurate, PG13 is probably fair, not for risk of injury, but rather for the consequences of falling on the traverse pitch. Hope you brought your prussiks! P1 is the crux, no question. 5.9+/debatable 5.10a. The slab is thin, and requires a little confidence in your feet to get through. Bolt spacing is about as good as it gets for a desert slab. P1 belay is bolted and semi-hanging. Theres a decent spot to stand, lean into your harness and watch your second struggle up the slab. P2 is fun, a little spooky, but the holds are there. 5.7 is pretty accurate, the climbing is awkward rather than hard. The party in front of us struggled because the leader was 5-foot-nothing. P2 belay is bolted and has a nice ledge directly below the P3 chimney. P3 is the best pitch on the route. It’s a fun mix of cleans and easy desert crack/OW/chimney depending on the size of your limbs. Those with little crack experience will find it harder. 5.7. I took a #5 and used it, but could have gotten away without it. Use your nuts and small cams wherever you can to save your larger pro for higher in the pitch. The bolted belay station is left of the main crack system on a very comfortable ledge. This pitch is long, and the station comes before the end of the crack system, so be looking for it. P4 leader will have to re-enter the crack to the right of the station to proceed. P4 starts in the P3 crack system until the crack ends and bolts become visible above you. The crack becomes slab, but the climbing is much easier than P1. The “runout” isn’t a big deal at all, although the last bulge directly in front of the anchor is a little burly and completely unprotected. 5.8. Bolted belay. Descent: Traverse right to a second station. Rap with two ropes past a single piton to your left, to three bolts. Both climbers will be hanging at this station while you pull your rope. One bolt is a spinner. Second rap gets you to the ground to the right and slightly below where you left your bags. Scramble back to the base of the climb via obvious climber trails. Nov 16, 2020

Tyler Collins Phoenix, AZ   5.9+

[Hide Comment] This route is fantastic. The only thing I have to add is the rap anchors up top are 50 feet right of the anchors for P4. A little spicy to get to. Also.. If you plan to lessen the runout to the first bolt on P1 you will need a .1 BD or something similar. My .2 didn't fit and I was very sad. It's not terribly difficult climbing but it sure would suck to slip. May 30, 2021

brooks swigart

[Hide Comment] Stay heads-up after the 4th pitch becomes a "hike" as the final move up the bulge requires your attention! (It sure got mine). Well placed runners on the 4th pitch will keep the rope drag down, otherwise the slab and final bulge will feel harder with all the drag. Very fun route, felt like a "flight" of climbing styles. Oct 19, 2021

Tomily ma

[Hide Comment] Something I liked about this route is watching the insta-zoo of devils bridge. I was glad not to be one of the ants. The route itself is a blast. Oct 19, 2021

Matt Heinen Arizona

[Hide Comment] If anyone has any nasty fall stories on the traverse pitch I'd love to hear em! Feb 12, 2022

Luke Greminger

[Hide Comment] The trailhead was extremely hard to find because there were no cairns. Whoever knocks them down quit doing it so people like me don’t go wandering and destroying the woods to find the trail. First slab pitch was probably 5.8 and pretty straight forward but verrrry runout in the beginning but it was easy but still uncomfortable. Pitch two was the awesome traverse and no complaints on that. 3rd pitch was an awesome crack and off width that I’d probably rate a 5.9 and I thought that was the crux. 4th pitch was a little bit of crack to slab that was pretty easy probably 5.8. There’s two sets of bolts on the top go to the ones on the far right so you can rap down. One 70 is perfect for rapping down from the top (a 60 wont cut it). There’s no point in bringing two 60s unless if you don’t plan on climbing all four pitches because you won’t be able to get down with one 70 otherwise. Great climb! Apr 16, 2022

Matt Wenger Bozeman   5.8+

[Hide Comment] Solid route. The “PG13” sections are easy slab runouts. Not really any risk of falling. Superb climbing. I found this route easier than Dr. Rubo’s. Gear I’d bring next time: single 0.3-0.4, double 0.5-3, single 4. May 1, 2022

Corey T USA

[Hide Comment] May be worth clarifying in the description that only pitches 1 and 2 are bolted. My partner and I went assuming the whole route was a bolted sport route. Pitches 3 and 4 are trad. I thought when a route on MP says it's both trad and sport, that it could be run either way, not that it's a route that combines both. Maybe I just misunderstood. It sounds like you could sport climb pitches 1 and 2 and then rappel from there with a 70m. The road in is not gravel which I thought I read somewhere, it's legit high clearance 4x4 only for about 3.5 miles. Luckily we were in a Jeep so we made it down the road. The approach trail starts 0.4 mi from the Devils Bridge trailhead parking lot, not 0.2. We kept trying to find it but just needed to walk further. It was a little tricky to follow in some places, and the final approach up to the base of the climb was sketch/washed out/unmarked. It took us an hour on the dot to get from the Devils Bridge trailhead to the base of the climb. We only did pitch 1. Why is the first bolt so high?? It was HARD. Definitely more like a 5.10 for us. No holds! Final pull over the limestone band on P1 is a no fall zone. Jan 28, 2024

Brian Benedon Tucson

[Hide Comment] I think it’s important to mention that, unless you have a truck, you have to Park at the Vista Creek trailhead and walk a mile and a half on the dirt 4 x 4 Road. It did not require four-wheel-drive, but it does require high clearance. The trailhead parking fills out around 7 AM Oct 11, 2024