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Routes in Half Rock

Big Sandy Bound (aka The Wetlands President) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Global Warming S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kinder and Gentler Ream Job T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Rangers in Space T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vanishing Desert T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Mark Spencer & Dwight Simpson, March 1990
Page Views: 300 total, 2/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 28, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect! Details

Description

Easy moves gain the first bolt after which thin and somewhat reachy moves get one established on some small knobs (crux). After clipping the 2nd bolt move past an shallow intrusion in the rock with so-so feet and then "huck for muffins" to reach the last bolt. Easier friction moves lead to the top.

If the rock were better this would be a more enjoyable climb, then again if the rock were better the climb might not go, as the roughness of the rock allows some amazing hand and footholds to be utilized. Fun and challenging moves on somewhat poor rock. One star out of five.

Location

You'll find this challenging route on the right side of the south face, just right of Big Sandy Bound (aka The Wetlands President).

Protection

3 bolts, anchors (all 3/8")

Photos

C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
"huck for muffins?"

Yes, reach for rounded holds not unlike that of a muffin (top). Credit goes to Kerwin Klein for the catchy phrase. Feb 15, 2013
"huck for muffins?" Feb 15, 2013