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Routes in Half Rock

Big Sandy Bound (aka The Wetlands President) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Global Warming S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kinder and Gentler Ream Job T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Rangers in Space T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vanishing Desert T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Rex Pieper & Doug Benner, January 1990
Page Views: 264 total, 2/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 28, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect! Details

Description

Make some easy moves onto the rock, mantle a large grey intrusion and clip the first of two bolts. Moving past the first bolt is the crux and involves getting up to and reaching another intrusion near the second bolt. Clip the bolt (a spinner) and then work your way up into ledgefall range as you make the gritty exit moves.

The hard moves on this are well protected but a fall from near the top could be disastrous. Should you fall the bolt might hold, but even if it does you'll probably hit the intrusion and break your ankles. Probably better to toprope this, or better yet just avoid it altogether.

Location

Left of Global Warming on the left side of the south face, next to an arete.

Protection

2 bolts (5/16"), anchors

Photos

Rex Pieper  
 
Hey now...this route is kinda fun. Pity it's short. I took some decent falls figuring out where it went on the FA (tried staying by the arete). You won't hit that stance. Jeez, sport climbers ;) I wouldn't want to fall from the exit moves though. Doug was ready to start running downhill if I did. Big Sandy Bound is a play on where you'd end up if you fell from the exit (the ground) and the small town in northeastern Texas that Doug was moving to several weeks after the FA. Where Randy came up with "Wetlands President" I'll never guess.

Some amazing fingertip friction holds on this route that really surprised me that they worked. Oct 5, 2006