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Routes in Stirrup Rock - South Face

Carlos Danger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancin' Daze T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fear of a Black Planet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Overpowered By Funk T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Peter Eater Pumpkin Eater T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Alan Nelson & Mike Beck, December 1982
Page Views: 982 total, 7/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Jan 19, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Dancin' Daze starts up a left-angling corner/crack, 20' left of Peter Eater Pumpkin Eater. Climb the crack (crux?) to a low-angle ramp below the large roof. A big step right (crux?) leads to fun, reasonably-protected face climbing. A shoulder-length runner or two can be used to sling knobs. Rejoin a low-angle crack past the roof to the summit.

Prudent use of shoulder-length slings should keep rope drag to a minimum.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8 PG13
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8 PG13
This climb is divided into two sections that are very different. The lower part is a stellar 5.8 dihedral, easily protected. The face section above the dihedral is committing and most will find downright dangerous, vertical megaflakes and a stark lack of protection. Can bail from top of dihedral by traversing easy slab on left. Mar 2, 2016
Ryan Kelly
work.
 
Ryan Kelly   work.
 
Great climbing on terrible rock. After the dihedral (which you don't climb up) it's face climbing on hollow, loose flakes. Add in some runout, and you have an interesting route. Might be a classic if the rock was sound... and it wasn't in the Stirrup Tanks. Oct 29, 2007