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Routes in Stirrup Rock - South Face

Carlos Danger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancin' Daze T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fear of a Black Planet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Overpowered By Funk T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Peter Eater Pumpkin Eater T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Adam Stackhouse
Page Views: 953 total, 18/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on Aug 10, 2013
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb up a slab past two bolts, then run it out (easy) to the headwall. Climb up and then right to the blunt arete, pasting more bolts, until you reach the slabby finish.

Location

Located about 20' left of Dancin' Daze.

Protection

Seven quickdraws for seven bolts to a bolted anchor.
Dustin Stephens  
  5.8
Pretty turdy. One cool part up top but the rock quality sucks. Nov 20, 2017
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
I see you guys are showering this route with stars but the only shower I found was the rock quality on my belayer. Fun enough start which is short lived before hitting the ledge. I figured there was enough space before the headwall to avoid rope drag but I was wrong. Back cleaned the 1st draw after the ledge then used long runners. Rope drag is horrendous and the rock is devoid of quality. What you will find is very loose rock, flakes that want to detach and was blowing my buzz so much I took. Which was double trouble, as I was seriously questioning how good the bolts could be.

I had high hopes for this route. I was okay with the giant ledge in the middle but in the end, I was disappointed. Poor quality rock, giant mid-way ledge, grains, flakes & drag. If that doesn't scare you off I highly recommend leading the entire route with runners and belay from top as the drag is.... well....a drag.

Sorry Todd et al. Feb 9, 2014