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Routes in Stirrup Rock - South Face

Carlos Danger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancin' Daze T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fear of a Black Planet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Overpowered By Funk T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Peter Eater Pumpkin Eater T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Mike Waugh, Nick Badyrka, Dave Houser & Jan McCollum, December 1977
Page Views: 1,433 total, 8/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Mar 1, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This prominent straight-up crack in solid rock is very distinctive and easy to see when approaching the south face of Stirrup Rock.

The most difficult section, a shallow pod, occurs within the first eight feet. The climbing eases considerably until a bulge near the top.

Protection

This stellar crack is easy to protect with medium stoppers and 1" - 3.5" cams. Fist-sized cams are needed for an anchor.
Richard Shore
  5.10+
Richard Shore  
  5.10+
I came out to Stirrup Rocks area for some easy solos, and ended up on this one by mistake. Using the new Miramontes guide, I studied the WRONG picture thinking this was Gargoyle, a cruiser 5.6. Looking up from the base I thought "wow, the start looks like V2!" But this is Josh, and the first 15 feet don't count, right? It looked juggy above, yet still steep. Foolishly, I ignored my instincts and was drawn closer by the route's siren song. I went for it, and was rewarded with beautiful climbing moves. Arriving on the summit, I was convinced that it was the biggest sandbag in all of Josh. On my hike out back to the car, I saw an elderly couple climbing an easy handcrack and asked them what it was. Their reply - "Gargoyle!" I immediately realized my error, and was beside myself when I opened the guide and saw what I had done.

Hardest 5.6 ever. Nov 28, 2011
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
"I think a little more reach/height would help reach the jam from the good foot holds, or maybe just a little additional burliness."

I'll go with burliness. On the FA team was Mike Waugh & Jan McCollum who run out at about 5'7" & 5'5" respectively.

As for your comment about Mike Waugh, he was and still is BAD-O™.

Sorry to hear about your digit!

~Susan Nov 5, 2007
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
Was rated F10 back when I was a kid..... maybe even called 5.9 by some. Seems a bit hard for 5.9 Nov 5, 2007
As I sit here nursing the hole I ripped in my left index finger, I have to emphasize Chris's suggestion to tape up for this one. It's the first knuckle on the left index finger that best fit in the jam, and coincidentally is now munched.

I was unable to crank through the starting crux on this thing. I think a little more reach/height would help reach the jam from the good foot holds, or maybe just a little additional burliness. This felt very stout for a 10c, but I'll reserve judgement until I actually get up the dang thing.

I see a trend with routes that have the name "Mike Waugh" in the FA list - most seem stout for the grade and downright burly. But who knows... maybe I'm just weak. Nov 5, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
I really liked this one. Similar to O'Kelley's Crack, it's difficult to rate its difficulty using the YDS. I'd put the start at 5.11, awkward and reachy to a good fingerlock. Once past that, the rest of the route is no more than 5.8/9 with maybe one 5.10a move up higher as Vern mentions in the description. Very fun.

There's a cool shot of Mike Waugh on the first ascent of PEPE in the old Wolfe guide.

There is a rap station (climber's right) on the shoulder of the formation which requires some easy downclimbing to reach. The bolts (approx 2' apart) are each equipped with a single quicklink, which makes pulling your rope difficult. Chains might be appropriate here. Any thoughts?

As a side note, shouldn't the name be Peter PETER Pumpkin Eater, as in the misogynistic nursery rhyme?

Peter, Peter, pumpkin eater,
Had a wife and couldn't keep her;
He put her in a pumpkin shell,
And there he kept her very well. Jan 19, 2006
C Miller
CA
  5.10c
C Miller   CA  
  5.10c
It's particularly helpful to tape up as there's a ripper jam in the lower (crux) section. Good rock with fun moves and there's rarely a soul around. Three stars out of five. Mar 7, 2003
Randy  
Due to a tyographical error in the 1992 guide, the name of this route has been incorrectly listed (and relisted in Alan's book) as Peter Easter Pumkin Eater. The actual name is Peter Eater Pumkin Eater. Not a big deal, I'll admit, but it will corrected in volume 2 of the new guide. No need to perpetuate the error here.

A fun route on good rock. Mar 3, 2003