Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Joan Johns, 2005
Page Views: 257 total · 2/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Jan 14, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

17 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


Approach: Take the left branch in the approach as though going to The Horse, The Tower, et cetera. After about 20 feet, go right on an obvious trail as though going up to The Clipboard. After 50 feet or so, go left around the corner on a ledge and arrive at a pleasant platform beneath the Three Dihedrals, maybe 50 feet short of Curvilinear.

Belay on a great ledge and climb a low-angle slab to a small ledge about 40 feet up (could belay here). Climb a 2-inch crack that angles up to the right and gain a stance at the base of a nice arete. Follow bolts up the arete and face just left of the arete to a 2-bolt anchor with rings at 100 feet. 5 bolts plus gear. Lower off.


This route has 5 bolts, but requires gear from 1 inch to 3 inches in two or three places. Hint: don't bring a big rack; this isn't El Cap. It is also possible to belay on a good ledge about 40 feet up, which will require a few more pieces in the 1 to 3 inch range.


Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
Some nice moves up the arete and the face. Hardest moves are at the second and third bolts. I used a #2 and #3 Camalot in the crack below the first bolt, and a #.75 Camalot between the third and fourth bolts.

Warning: there is a big loose block above and right of the third bolt. It's ready to go, but there were too many people at Avalon today to trundle it. I will go back there on a weekday and launch it. Apr 16, 2006
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
I trundled the big loose block above and right of the third bolt today (Friday 5/19/06) while no one was around. Other loose rock on ledges was also cleaned up. May 19, 2006
Randy Carmichael
Boulder, CO
Randy Carmichael   Boulder, CO
I stayed left of the bolts on the face. A good variation and a slight increase in difficulty. Sep 19, 2010
Clint Locks
Clint Locks   Boulder
Could be a great first trad lead. Super fun! Jun 2, 2013