Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Bonnie Von Grebe, 2001.
Page Views: 162 total · 1/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Sep 7, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

This secluded, seldom-done climb is worth seeking out.

The route climbs a left-arching thin crack and ramp with a pine tree at the top, starting in an alcove left of the Three Dihedrals; see boulderclimbs.com/climbing/…

Approach: There are two ways to get to the climb:

1. From the creek, climb up the talus field above the Tyrolean traverse to the branch trail to Tarot Wall. Go 30' left on the branch trail, then head right and up on a faint trail. Continue up until you can cut left across some rocks below the three dihedrals to a wooded gully. Go up the gully to an alcove at the start of the climb.

2. From the Dominator-Clipboard area, head downhill past the big dead tree. At your first opportunity, cut right across some rocks below the three dihedrals to a wooded gully. Go up the gully to an alcove at the start of the climb.

The route: stem the corner at the back of the alcove to a stance just right of the crack. Step left and climb the crack and ramp. Belay from the pine tree at the top.

Descent: rappel 40' from slings and rings on the tree.

I used gear from a blue to an orange Alien and a #3 Ball Nut for pro. Double green and yellow Aliens are useful.

Sustained, interesting climbing; would get two stars if it were longer.

Protection

Gear to 1". Aliens work very well.

Photos