Type: Trad, 130 ft (39 m)
GPS: 39.28349, -105.07417
FA: John Langston/Amber Schaffer? George Bracksieck, 1978?
Page Views: 2,825 total · 11/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jun 30, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

The amazing striking OW/Chimey line splitting the southeast face.

It starts as stacks, goes to squeeze chimney and gets into full stems with a fist crack. I had only a #6 Friend and smaller and was able to only get 4 pieces of pro in 180 feet. The cruxes were protected but a fall in most places would have meant decking. Gold Big Bros may help.

To descend, walk right (exposed) until you are below the sickest OW fist crack you've ever seen (Crumbling Reality) and look right. There is an anchor with one new bolt and one old bolt. Use a single rope rap down the slab and scramble down the chimney. Walk back to your pack around the back side, this takes a while, follow the path of least resistance.

I recently added a 2 bolt anchor to the top of Meatpipe. You can just barely get back to the ground with a single 70m rope now. You can't do this with a 60.

Protection Suggest change

Large cams, Valley Giants, gold Big Bros.

Photos

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