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Routes in The Taj Mahal

Air to the Thrown T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crumbling Reality T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Honey Over Hotcakes S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Meat Pipe T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
North Headwall Direct? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pressed Ham T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Taj Mixed Climb T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Too Young to Fly T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: John Langston/Amber Schaffer? George Bracksieck, 1978?
Page Views: 1,509 total, 10/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jun 30, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The amazing striking OW/Chimey line splitting the southeast face.

It starts as stacks, goes to squeeze chimney and gets into full stems with a fist crack. I had only a #6 Friend and smaller and was able to only get 4 pieces of pro in 180 feet. The cruxes were protected but a fall in most places would have meant decking. Gold Big Bros may help.

To descend, walk right (exposed) until you are below the sickest OW fist crack you've ever seen (Crumbling Reality) and look right. There is an anchor with one new bolt and one old bolt. Use a single rope rap down the slab and scramble down the chimney. Walk back to your pack around the back side, this takes a while, follow the path of least resistance.

I recently added a 2 bolt anchor to the top of Meatpipe. You can just barely get back to the ground with a single 70m rope now. You can't do this with a 60.

Protection

Large cams, Valley Giants, gold Big Bros.

Photos

slim    
It's definitely a prominent feature, that's for sure. Glad to hear that you are getting the lowdown on some history, hopefully you'll keep posting it. Jul 12, 2010
Dude, I hate to break it to you but I just spent the morning with George Bracksieck (of Rock and Ice fame) and he was showing me a bunch of slides from all over the Platte and stuff and came to a slide of Meat Pipe. He said he lead this route in 1978! Sans pro, too! He also lead Air to the Throne clean to the top of the 5.9 crack up top where he bailed (no bolts on the top out yet). History is so cool. Jul 8, 2010
TBD
  5.9
TBD  
  5.9
After climbing this route with John today I had to ask 5.7 + what? It turns out you need to add about two number grades. The difficulty is reminiscent of the narrows on Steck-Salathe in Yosemite. The route is about 130 feet of pure squeeze/chimney climbing with a little off-widthing in the beginning to get established and a few fist jams near the top. This route seems to me to be about as good as this type of climbing gets. To locate this route, it is the dark slot shown on Hubbel's drawing just to the right of The King and Eyes.

We added an anchor to the top of the route, a double rope rap gets you back to the start. Jun 10, 2007