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Routes in The Taj Mahal

Air to the Thrown T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crumbling Reality T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Honey Over Hotcakes S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Meat Pipe T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
North Headwall Direct? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pressed Ham T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Taj Mixed Climb T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Too Young to Fly T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Harvey Carter
Page Views: 1,017 total, 8/month
Shared By: TBD on Jun 10, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

On the left side of the south face of Taj Mahal is a striking, right-curving flake/corner. This is an excellent climb involving finger locks through locker hand jams. The climbing is awkwardly strenuous at times, utilizing tenuous, right foot smears on the face. Short sections of cranking are rewarded with decent stances.

We replaced the bolt hangers at the top of the route with some Fixe rings to remove the tat and bad bronze colored SMC hangers. A 70M rope is just right.

Location

It is on the South Face, in the middle of a steep, prominent slab.

Protection

Full rack from small/ medium nuts to #4 Friend. The #4 is helpful near the start of the route to protect the pull over a bulge to get established in the corner.

Photos

Gary walker   Alma
Who named it Too Young to Fly? I don't know what Harvey Carter called it. I don't think it needs a name.
I concur it is .10c/d. Jul 17, 2016
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10c
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10c
This is called "Too Young to Fly" in the Jason Haas guidebook. The name on here should be changed. Haas says to bring 2 #1 and #2 Camalots, but we used three #2s and two #3s. He says to rack up to a #3 but does not mention 2. The crack takes nuts in many places as well. May 19, 2014
Gary walker   Alma
Harvey Carter put up the first ascent on this amazing crack. I guess Scott Stull and I were the second to do it. We found one of his pins at the base that has HC stamped on it. Scott Stull and I put up the three pitch bolted line to the left of Harvey's crack called Trials and Tribulations, 11d? Ground up. Twin ropes are helpful on first pitch. It meanders left then back right to a two bolt anchor. Pitch one and two are 11d. The third to top is about 5.8. Both routes make it a fun day at Taj Mahal. Mar 10, 2014