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Routes in The Taj Mahal

Air to the Thrown T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crumbling Reality T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Honey Over Hotcakes S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Meat Pipe T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
North Headwall Direct? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pressed Ham T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Taj Mixed Climb T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Too Young to Fly T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Unknown or John Langston (probably not)
Page Views: 1,142 total, 7/month
Shared By: Orphaned on May 31, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

You will see it in the Hubbel guide as 10d A1. It is about 75 feet right of the super classic 10c handcrack on the southeast face. You can't miss it.

P1: Scramble up 5.4 X block on the left for a direct start or 4th class scramble up the right side. You'll find the spot to belay from for the real business about 75' up.

P2: It starts as fingers and stemming, goes out a bulge to the left and intermittently goes through hands to stacks and pods for 100 feet or so. There are 2 completely unnecessary bolts on this route. Looking at their placement would seem to indicate that this route was aided (10d A1) prior to the popularization of big cams or big bro's.

Double rope rap to the ground from anchors.

I freed this route in 2003 though I have my doubts that I was the first to do so. I'd love some feedback from others who've done it. I find it hard to believe that I got the FFA on such an inviting line.

Protection

Cams up to 4", Stoppers, 2 and 3 Big Bro.

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