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North Headwall Direct?
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in The Taj Mahal
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Air to the Thrown T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crumbling Reality T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Meat Pipe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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North Headwall Direct? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pressed Ham T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Taj Mixed Climb T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Too Young to Fly T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unknown S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 7 pitches |
| FA: | John Langston & Lamont (slim) |
| Page Views: | 894 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | slim on Aug 31, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Mediocre climbing to a steep 3 star crack through a headwall.
This route is on the north face, and starts just right of the vast, low angle, apron slab. There is a gully that eventually becomes a chimney (chimneychanga, 5.8).
P1 (5.5?, 150 feet?) Either climb the low angle, unprotected slab to a 2 bolt anchor, or scramble up the gully and make a belay in a recess below the chimney.
P2 (5.7, 100 feet) Climb the OW/chimney, passing one semi-manky bolt on the main wall. A green Big Bro could be useful here. Scramble left on a ledge and make a gear belay below the obvious roof crack. There is a horizontal crack system here for gear, but the rock is kind of crappy. Look around and be creative and you should be able to build a good anchor.
P3 (10c?, 160 feet) The first 10 feet of this pitch is pretty crappy. Rotten, bushy, layback flake. However, you are rewarded above. At the top of the flake pull into good hands through a roof/bulge. This crack is leaning, flaring, and steep. The jams are pretty good though if you look around. The crux comes at a section where it goes to OW for a short section. Battle through this via stacks, long reaches, and technical footwork. The crack gets less steep above with a gorgeous section of sustained #4.5 Camalot to #5 Camalot OW. Continue up and to the left and construct a creative belay at the top of the flake. Three star pitch without a doubt.
P4 (5.7, 50 feet) Straight up to the top past several really old and really crappy bolts. Careful here as the rock is a little crumbly.
There apparently was a summit register. A piece of PVC pipe, but the register was gone. Too bad, it would have been cool to see who had been up here.
Descent: Rap off to the west. Three single rope raps off new bolts, if I remember correctly. This brings you to a huge flat ledge. On the northwest side of the ledge, scramble down a gully and make your way around to the base.
This route is on the north face, and starts just right of the vast, low angle, apron slab. There is a gully that eventually becomes a chimney (chimneychanga, 5.8).
P1 (5.5?, 150 feet?) Either climb the low angle, unprotected slab to a 2 bolt anchor, or scramble up the gully and make a belay in a recess below the chimney.
P2 (5.7, 100 feet) Climb the OW/chimney, passing one semi-manky bolt on the main wall. A green Big Bro could be useful here. Scramble left on a ledge and make a gear belay below the obvious roof crack. There is a horizontal crack system here for gear, but the rock is kind of crappy. Look around and be creative and you should be able to build a good anchor.
P3 (10c?, 160 feet) The first 10 feet of this pitch is pretty crappy. Rotten, bushy, layback flake. However, you are rewarded above. At the top of the flake pull into good hands through a roof/bulge. This crack is leaning, flaring, and steep. The jams are pretty good though if you look around. The crux comes at a section where it goes to OW for a short section. Battle through this via stacks, long reaches, and technical footwork. The crack gets less steep above with a gorgeous section of sustained #4.5 Camalot to #5 Camalot OW. Continue up and to the left and construct a creative belay at the top of the flake. Three star pitch without a doubt.
P4 (5.7, 50 feet) Straight up to the top past several really old and really crappy bolts. Careful here as the rock is a little crumbly.
There apparently was a summit register. A piece of PVC pipe, but the register was gone. Too bad, it would have been cool to see who had been up here.
Descent: Rap off to the west. Three single rope raps off new bolts, if I remember correctly. This brings you to a huge flat ledge. On the northwest side of the ledge, scramble down a gully and make your way around to the base.
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