Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Vaino Kodas, and Mary Zuvela
Page Views: 1,634 total · 10/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 2, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Private Property Details


Start about 75 feet right of Gumby Groove. Climb up to the first bolt, make a hard move, and then climb past two more bolts to a ledge. Follow a line of bolts up a black streak (hard), and gain an angling groove. First go up past three more bolts (hard), and then gain the anchor.

A 200-foot rope DOES NOT MAKE IT BACK TOO THE GROUND (about 10 feet short). BE CAREFUL. This has excellent, continuous slab climbing on solid rock. It is a great route! It gets almost three stars.


Eleven clips will get you to a two-bolt anchor.


Great route. Excellent slab climbing with several hard sections. Dec 19, 2004
If this is the route with the glue-in bolts next to and above gumbi grove, well then I hate to inform you that all of the glue-in bolts are trashed and bent over. What a mess. These were some of the finest bolted routes in the South Platte area. Who ever did this must have a serious problem. If you don't like bolts don't use them but certainly don't make things worse by trying to destroy the bolts. It only damages the rock even more.

Another thing to the person or persons who did this, don't do it HALF-ASS. Make sure you clean up your mess, fix your damage, pull them cleanly as you can, and re-epoxy and seal the rock so a person can't tell anything was even there.

What a bunch of scum bags. Apr 21, 2006
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
I saw the comment above and drove by to check this out

Unfortunately, the bolts on Prickle's Problem and Pokey Minds the Baby have been destroyed. These were 2 good independent lines that were a lot of fun to climb so it is a shame that they are now unclimbable. I'm not sure what kind of statement was being made as the bolts weren't chopped, but just hammered over. They look a lot worse now..... Apr 30, 2006
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
It's a shame this route was destroyed as I thought it was one of the best slab routes on the wall and the bolts weren't even removed, simply hammered against the wall.

A single 70meter rope will get you down. Jun 7, 2008
David Carey
Morrison, CO
David Carey   Morrison, CO
I hope the smasher reads these comments. As a predominantly trad climber, I often even support chopping and removing bolts when it interferes with climbs that could be done clean, or even if they are added in addition to FA's take on a route, impacts the feels, etc...but this is effed. I can't say I know the area history enough though for the second or third case, but no one would lead that climb on gear for sure...really sad and very lame. Sep 6, 2015
Jonathan S
Golden, CO
Jonathan S   Golden, CO
The anchors can be reached by climbing Easy Out just to the right. Then you can toprope Prickle's Problem with a 70m. Nov 26, 2017