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Routes in Bucksnort Slab

Bouxsnort S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Buck Fever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Bucksnort Boulder Crack T V0-1 4+
Bushes of Baelzebub T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Classic Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Core Dump S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crazy Face 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Easy Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Good Virbrations T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gumbi Groove S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hurricane Gloria T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Left Out T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Motor Mouth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nuclear Burn S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Overlooked T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pokey Minds the Baby S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prickle's Problem S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Saque Los Panta Lones T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shake 'n' Bake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Slippery When Dry T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Slippery When Wet T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Vaino Kodas, and Mary Zuvela
Page Views: 1,550 total, 10/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 2, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Private Property Details

Description

Start about 75 feet right of Gumby Groove. Climb up to the first bolt, make a hard move, and then climb past two more bolts to a ledge. Follow a line of bolts up a black streak (hard), and gain an angling groove. First go up past three more bolts (hard), and then gain the anchor.

A 200-foot rope DOES NOT MAKE IT BACK TOO THE GROUND (about 10 feet short). BE CAREFUL. This has excellent, continuous slab climbing on solid rock. It is a great route! It gets almost three stars.

Protection

Eleven clips will get you to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos

Jonathan Stickel
Golden, CO
 
Jonathan Stickel   Golden, CO
 
The anchors can be reached by climbing Easy Out just to the right. Then you can toprope Prickle's Problem with a 70m. Nov 26, 2017
Dave Carey
Morrison, CO
Dave Carey   Morrison, CO
I hope the smasher reads these comments. As a predominantly trad climber, I often even support chopping and removing bolts when it interferes with climbs that could be done clean, or even if they are added in addition to FA's take on a route, impacts the feels, etc...but this is effed. I can't say I know the area history enough though for the second or third case, but no one would lead that climb on gear for sure...really sad and very lame. Sep 6, 2015
Jason Haas  
 
It's a shame this route was destroyed as I thought it was one of the best slab routes on the wall and the bolts weren't even removed, simply hammered against the wall.

A single 70meter rope will get you down. Jun 7, 2008
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
I saw the comment above and drove by to check this out

Unfortunately, the bolts on Prickle's Problem and Pokey Minds the Baby have been destroyed. These were 2 good independent lines that were a lot of fun to climb so it is a shame that they are now unclimbable. I'm not sure what kind of statement was being made as the bolts weren't chopped, but just hammered over. They look a lot worse now..... Apr 30, 2006
esbb
 
esbb  
 
If this is the route with the glue-in bolts next to and above gumbi grove, well then I hate to inform you that all of the glue-in bolts are trashed and bent over. What a mess. These were some of the finest bolted routes in the South Platte area. Who ever did this must have a serious problem. If you don't like bolts don't use them but certainly don't make things worse by trying to destroy the bolts. It only damages the rock even more.

Another thing to the person or persons who did this, don't do it HALF-ASS. Make sure you clean up your mess, fix your damage, pull them cleanly as you can, and re-epoxy and seal the rock so a person can't tell anything was even there.

What a bunch of scum bags. Apr 21, 2006
ac
ac  
Great route. Excellent slab climbing with several hard sections. Dec 19, 2004