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Routes in Bucksnort Slab

Bouxsnort S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Buck Fever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Bucksnort Boulder Crack T V0-1 4+
Bushes of Baelzebub T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Classic Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Core Dump S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crazy Face 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Good Virbrations T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gumbi Groove S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hurricane Gloria T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Left Out T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Motor Mouth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nuclear Burn S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Overlooked T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pokey Minds the Baby S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prickle's Problem S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Saque Los Panta Lones T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shake 'n' Bake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Slippery When Dry T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Slippery When Wet T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Peter Holcombe & Luke Gosselin
Page Views: 1,713 total, 9/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Oct 25, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Private Property Details

Description

It's the most left route on Bucksnort slab. Just right of the walk off. The start is on a bench bellow a water streak. There are four bolts on the first pitch; two can be seen easily from the base, the third is on a bulge mostly out of sight. Belay in a crack (nuts & med. Aliens).

P2 - Go up and right on sweet slab passing a bolt to a four foot step. Small gear (nuts & aliens) can protect this pull over. Then two more bolts on the face lead to the top of the rock w/ a good crack to belay in (1,2,3 Camalots). This can be done as one long pitch with a 60M. Rope. All the hard climbing is protected w/ small run outs in between. Walk off to the left.

Protection

10-12 runners/QD's Nuts Small Aliens-#3 Camalot All Bolts 3/8"

Photos

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Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
The first little pitch of this route is very enjoyable. As for the second little part, the gear that is mentioned is suspect, unless you go quite a bit left of the bolt and place a large cam under a big flake, which puts you way left of the suggested route. From here I pulled through the 'step' on a loose block (only feature on the step, easily spotted to the left). The bolts mentioned on the slab above, seem to be down to 1 and are plenty far above the step. If you fell from the step it would be a bad scene. Be careful if you are not very confident on 9+ climbing.

My suggestion. Do the first part of the route and walk off to the left... !pi Apr 5, 2002