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Routes in Bucksnort Slab

Bouxsnort S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Buck Fever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Bucksnort Boulder Crack T V0-1 4+
Bushes of Baelzebub T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Classic Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Core Dump S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crazy Face 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Good Virbrations T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gumbi Groove S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hurricane Gloria T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Left Out T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Motor Mouth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nuclear Burn S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Overlooked T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pokey Minds the Baby S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prickle's Problem S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Saque Los Panta Lones T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shake 'n' Bake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Slippery When Dry T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Slippery When Wet T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: , 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 93 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ken Heiser on May 25, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Private Property Details

Description

Begin this route 10 or 15 feet left of the the route "Motorbreath" listed on this sight, starting from a flake leaning up against the cliff. Clip the first bolt and make weird smearing and stemming moves up and out left to a minute stance and the second bolt (crux). Clip the second bolt and move up to the crack (10+). Up the leftleaning crack to the Motorbreath anchor. Continue with that route or rappel.

This short climb has really neat moves but the bolts are really old and dangerous and are in need of replacment.Have fun :-)

Protection

A light rack is helpful for this climb. The pro is: first a rusty old, second a really bad old 1/4 in bolt (luckily it would be a very short fall) and then the crack.

Photos

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Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
  5.11a
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
  5.11a
To be specific, I think it was June 1977 that Bill Feiges and I did the FA of this route. Remember that the first moves were crux. Oct 30, 2004
Bill Feiges and I did the first ascent of this climb during the summer of 1977.Bruce MorrisBelmont, California Oct 7, 2004
TBD
TBD  
I replaced the two bolts on 5/28/04. Both were bad 1/4 inch button heads (one with a leeper hanger and one with a bad SMC hanger). Now they are nice 3/8 stainless with fixe hangers.

The climb is now probably 1.5 stars (with the gear update). Good climbing but not sustained once you reach the easy crack (small to medium cams), and the crack is a touch dirty. May 29, 2004
Ken Heiser
Boulder, CO
 
Ken Heiser   Boulder, CO
 
To correct my poor typing above; as of the time of post this route the pro constists of : A rusty old 3/8 in. bolt, a really rusty old 1/4 in. bolt and then the crack.Cheers Ken H. May 27, 2004