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Routes in Bucksnort Slab

Bouxsnort S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Buck Fever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Bucksnort Boulder Crack T V0-1 4+
Bushes of Baelzebub T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Classic Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Core Dump S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crazy Face 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Easy Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Good Virbrations T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gumbi Groove S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hurricane Gloria T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Left Out T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Motor Mouth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nuclear Burn S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Overlooked T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pokey Minds the Baby S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prickle's Problem S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Saque Los Panta Lones T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shake 'n' Bake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Slippery When Dry T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Slippery When Wet T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad
FA: Bruce Morris & Bill Feiges 6/77
Page Views: 321 total · 2/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Apr 23, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Private Property Details

Description

This route is located on the right side of the Bucksnort slab. Look for a left leaning crack that passes a large block with a single bolt above.

Pitch 1: 5.9+ 90'

Climb the crack up and left past some tricky moves down low and up to a large block. Pro is good but difficult to see because it is at your feet in the crack behind the block. Pass the block, clip a bolt and make some steep face moves. Clip a piton and move up an easier ground to a bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: 5.8 120'

Hand traverse left above the belay and enter a hand and fist crack. Climb straight up the crack passing a small bulge with an old fixed piece. Continue up the easier slab above the bulge to the top of the cliff and belay at a large pine tree.

Walk off to the climbers left.

.....................................................

Protection

Standard rack up to three inches, #1 Ballnut is useful.

Photos

Christopher Jones
Denver, Colorado
  5.10-
Christopher Jones   Denver, Colorado
  5.10-
Lead this route tonight after work. It was my second time on it, the first was following my friend Walter about six years ago. Nice fun route not an easy 5.9. Jul 1, 2009
Matt Nelson
Pueblo, CO
  5.9+
Matt Nelson   Pueblo, CO
  5.9+
A very psychological route in my opinion. Has a great crux move. The route doesn't climb as you think but it works great with your feet on the top of the crack...(getting pro in is interesting). A worthwhile climb. Definitely not for someone just breaking into 5.9 climbing. Jan 26, 2006
Buff Johnson
  5.9+
Buff Johnson  
  5.9+
My impression of this route is one of aquired taste. This route is probably a good one, but I found it left a sour taste with me.

The start is a little tricky, it just doesn't climb the way you think it should. Thanks for ugrading the bolt protecting the crux move, I found it a necessary placement (the crux move is really cool). Aliens worked well on the traversing seam, but I found cams did not offer adequate protection from the lower seam, about 10' lower than a small foot ledge with a block, up to the bolt. For the second, this could be an issue. I did find that there is a tailor-made bomber placement for a blue tri-cam in the foot ledge area, so you may want to bring one along. Or, teach your second the art of fixed-line ascension should they peel off & swing.

The anchor is updated & rappel will take either a single 60M (just rap uphill a little bit), or single 70M straight down. A single 50M is ill-advised.

All of this is with regard to the first pitch, I consider the second pitch as a part of the Bushes line. Jan 20, 2006
Brian Tessier
Lakehood, Colorado
  5.9
Brian Tessier   Lakehood, Colorado
  5.9
Thanks for the gear upgrade! Mar 6, 2005
Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
Bob D. is absolutely right. Ms. Fanny worked out in the Washington Park Gym in Denver and she always wore a t-shirt with the Le Pump label on the front (c. 1976). Of course, she was built like that too.... Oct 7, 2004
Bruce, Good to see your posts. Could you explain the name Miss Fanny Le Pump in Boulder Canyon? Thanks Oct 7, 2004
This sounds like the route Bill Feiges and I named "Motor Mouth" when we did the F.A. back in the summer of 1977. "Motor Mouth" was a name David Crosby applied to himself in an article on CSN&Y in the Rolling Stone magazine.Bruce MorrisBelmont, California Oct 7, 2004
TBD
TBD  
I replaced the protection bolt for this climb (it was a bad 1/4 inch button head). Also, at the bolted anchor for the first pitch, I replaced one bolt/ hanger, one leeper hanger, and added chains/ links. It is now a very satisfying anchor. May 29, 2004
A rather unique route that diagonals up and left in a straight line. It had me fooled from the ground--I thought I'd climb it from beneath the crack, but suddenly I ended up standing on top of it, which made for awkward stances throughout. Good fun! Oct 30, 2002
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
Solid 5.9 for sure. Tricky starting moves to the sketchy block. Oct 21, 2002
Ben F
Benfield, Kolorado
 
Ben F   Benfield, Kolorado
 
Like other Bucksnort climbs, this one is a bit polished. I would not recommend it to a 5.9 leader.

Some, but not all of the placements are a little suspect. Oct 13, 2002
TBD
TBD  
First pitch is very worthwhile. I believe the second pitch referred to is the same as the second of Bush of Baelzebub. However, several options are available from the bolt belay. Jul 21, 2002

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