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Routes in Lower Right Side

A Tall Cool One S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bowling Block V2-3 5+
Bowling Block Right V3 6A
Centennial S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Curb Service S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Run S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Father Figure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Happy Ending S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hareless In Boulder T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Just Like Nebraska S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Shady Deal S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Splitting Hares S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Splitz S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Zee Eliminator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Dan Hare and Stella Adams, July 2002
Page Views: 2,411 total · 14/month
Shared By: Bruce Pech on Oct 7, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is the bolted route between Father Figure and Splitting Hares described in Greg Hand's July 10, 2003 comment on Centennial. The 11c grade is an approximation; it may be easier....

Climb to the first bolt on Father Figure, then diagonal right past another bolt into a large, right-facing corner. The difficulties begin at the third bolt where the corner narrows and steepens. Stem precariously up past the fourth and fifth bolts to a small roof. Clip the bolt over the roof and crank it on mediocre hands (crux). Make another dicey move to pull into balance below the final slab. After clipping the last bolt, one or two moves in a finger crack lead to the anchors. Lower 40'.

Although the climbing from the third bolt to the anchors is sustained, the bolts are only 3'-5' apart.

Protection

Seven bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos

Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
This route is "Shady Deal", 5.11c/d, first ascent by Dan Hare and Stella Adams, July 2002, according to Mark Rolofson's new guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide Volume II - The Upper Canyon". Aug 29, 2005
Zach Allen
  5.11a/b
Zach Allen  
  5.11a/b
Really fun route with precarious moves. Ridiculously over-bolted. Does it count as a lead if you always have a bolt clipped over your head? Apr 15, 2006
Richard Radcliffe
Louisville, CO
  5.11a
Richard Radcliffe   Louisville, CO
  5.11a
From below, the route looks like it might be kind of a weird-fest, but once you get into it, you'll find that it's really a stemmer's delight capped off with one or two nice, balancy slab moves to the anchor. Too bad it's so short... Sep 10, 2007
Aeon Aki    
 
Solid at .11c if you factor in the multiple z-clip cruxes. Sep 8, 2008
Andrew Shoemaker
Olympia, WA
  5.11b
Andrew Shoemaker   Olympia, WA
  5.11b
Way over bolted but excellent route. There is a bolt like every 5ft. Really cool moves and nice array of features. I would rate this at .11a/b Jun 2, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
The number of extra bolts on the route is similar to the number of extra letter-grades it was given above its actual difficulty. But at least it is a fun patch of rock, even if a little short. Mar 28, 2012

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