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Routes in Lower Right Side

A Tall Cool One S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bowling Block V1-2 5
Centennial S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Curb Service S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Run S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Father Figure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Happy Ending S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hareless In Boulder T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Just Like Nebraska S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Shady Deal S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Splitting Hares S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Splitz S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Zee Eliminator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas, 2003
Page Views: 4,523 total, 26/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jun 22, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


204 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route is located on the far right-side of the Bowling Alley, just right of a large, ponderosa tree fifty feet from the road. Climb up past two bolts and place gear in a thin crack. Make a dicey move left and clip a bolt in a small corner. Make some hard moves past the bolt and gain a good ledge. Fire up a short crack and reach a large ledge. Clip a bolt and make some cool face moves up to the anchor.

Protection

Eight bolts plus (optional) small-to-medium gear will get you to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos

Mark Hammond
Eldorado Springs, CO
Mark Hammond   Eldorado Springs, CO
I have to say that I and my partners felt that this was harder than 10a, more like 10c/d. We climbed it after climbing Bad Girls get Spanked and Midge Squadron and before climbing A Tall Cool One and Centennial (which also felt hard for the grade relative to the others). It may have something to do with my lack of reach though.... Feb 23, 2017
We replaced the worn links at the anchor last weekend with fat, stainless links & rings provided by the ASCA.

Please donate! The ASCA is a 501(c)3 organization. www.safeclimbing.org. Aug 11, 2015
Andrew Locke
Louisville, CO
  5.10a
Andrew Locke   Louisville, CO
  5.10a
This one is a little strange to me. The crux is committing and thought provoking, unless you can reach the small but very solid two finger hold up high. I did what I think most people do with some awkward hand jamming to reach the thank god holds above.

It's strange to me, because I've done the top pitch of Stayin' Alive twice, and both times I felt like it's harder than this one, though it looks like most other people think it's easier.

I'll have to jump on some other 10a/b in the area for more comparison, but maybe I just had a really good day. Dec 9, 2013
Rafiki  
The bolting style is much different compared to other climbs at this crag. When you turn the corner at the top, you have to do a few moves on the headwall before clipping the bolt. A fall here would be ugly. Jun 16, 2012
Heads up: the bottom links on the anchor are fairly worn (perhaps 1/8-1/4 of the way through?). I don't know enough to know how much warrants replacement, so I thought I'd share this with someone who does. Needless to say we rapped off this one (as should be done, and as I always do). Fun climb! Thanks to the FAs. Aug 28, 2011
Andrew Shoemaker
Olympia, WA
  5.10a/b
Andrew Shoemaker   Olympia, WA
  5.10a/b
Onsighted this route today and absolutely loved it. Definitely something I will climb again. Awesome moves from hand jams, finger jams, liebacks, and crimps. Went up without gear and did not even notice any runout. Seemed pretty safely bolted to me. At any rate I would def. reccomend doing this route. Jun 2, 2011
Paul Donald Andrews
Nederland, Co.
  5.10a/b
Paul Donald Andrews   Nederland, Co.
  5.10a/b
Climbed it today after backing off it last week. My partner/son led it and did a great job. I was a little freaked out. The area from the 3rd to 5th bolt seemed off balance and did not have a lot of real secure hands. Final headwall was cool, although the kid said that was the scariest part on lead. We did the crux differently. He found a two finger hold from which to clip bolt 5, I jammed the crack until able to reach the Thank God holds above. I'll be thinking about this one until I can come back and lead it in good style. May 14, 2011
This route is great, I love all the diversity that comes with it. Cool stems with a face on top, you have to really look for hand and foot placement. I give it five stars. Great lead climb to help you mentally. Jun 29, 2010
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
  5.10a/b
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
  5.10a/b
5.10a/b is good. There are plenty of opportunities for good rests with the features behind you. I was fine without any gear, but if this is near your limit bring some, because falls looked like they would not be clean. Overall a fun climb with lots of cool jams and stemming moves. Apr 11, 2009
D. Shaw
  5.10a/b PG13
D. Shaw  
  5.10a/b PG13
10a/b is right on. Excellent pitch, worth doing. I am a chicken, and don't think you really need extra gear, except you might want to stick-clip the first bolt if you don't want the risk of a broken ankle. Oct 7, 2008
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
 
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
 
Strenuous, awkward moves between the 3rd and 5th bolts. It felt pretty solid at 10a. The bolting is good. No gear necessary. Dec 4, 2007
Matt Gates
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Matt Gates   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Fun climb. Went with a red Alien between the 4th and 5th bolts. The finishing moves on the face are a nice change-up from the climbing below. Aug 13, 2006
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
There are now 8 bolts on this route. We felt comfortable leading this without additional gear, although a 1" to 1.5" cam could be placed between the 4th and 5th bolts.

An enjoyable route; great stemming in the lower corner and a fun headwall at the top. Aug 27, 2005
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
Thanks Bob...we climbed this yesterday, not knowing what we were climbing...but it felt (11ish) to me. The crux is clipping # 2 and also # 4 & #5...sustained. Oct 18, 2003
Anyone know what the route between Splitting Hairs and Centennial is? Oct 17, 2003
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
Make sure you take small (Aliens) to mid-size (#2 Friend) cams. It seemed quite a bit harder than 5.10a, but then we were climbing it in the fog and mist! A good route with lots of diverse moves. It will be interesting to climb it in good weather. Jun 25, 2003