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Routes in Lower Right Side

A Tall Cool One S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bowling Block V1-2 5
Centennial S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Curb Service S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Run S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Father Figure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Happy Ending S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hareless In Boulder T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Just Like Nebraska S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Shady Deal S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Splitting Hares S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Splitz S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Zee Eliminator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad
FA: unknown, bolted in the early 1980s
Page Views: 807 total, 4/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a idiosyncratic, litttle, roadside route of a few years back. You can almost belay from your bumper. It lies 8 miles uphill from Elephant Rocks, per Rossiter's guide, on the North side of the road. A small 35-40 foot face which now sports 2 lines.

It started with a wire or small cam to protect an opening slippery crux. Now it is protected by the 1st bolt of the neighboring route. Once you are situated with your left foot on the starting block, you can move delicately left to clip the 1st original bolt (harder) or move up and left and reach far down to clip the 1st original bolt (longer). Long reaches and balance out left to reach a sidepull and clip the second bolt. Then move out left to the arete and up the easier slab around the left. Now there is a 2-bolt anchor to lower from instead of the rap sling of past times.

The neighboring, more modern, more sustained, 4-bolt line (Curb Service) can go at a wandering 10a as you weave holds right and then left of the bolted directissima line.

Protection

Originally small cam, 2 bolts, and possible gear above -- now 3 bolts and possible gear above. 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10 PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10 PG13
You can place multiple green Aliens l on the arete (so-so) and a yellow Alien or possibly a blue deep behind a flake right of the arete + an #4 or #5 BD stopper to protect the easier but runout upper half. Sep 3, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10 PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10 PG13
I thought it was closer to 5.11 than 5.10. The runout is something to consider and the clips are awkward. Consider a TR if this is outside of your comfort zone.
The climbing itself though was not bad, so I'd give it 1 star. Nov 20, 2007