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Routes in Lower Right Side

A Tall Cool One S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bowling Block V1-2 5
Centennial S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Curb Service S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Run S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Father Figure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Happy Ending S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hareless In Boulder T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Just Like Nebraska S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Shady Deal S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Splitting Hares S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Splitz S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Zee Eliminator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas, Bob D'Antonio and Greg Hand, 2003
Page Views: 280 total, 2/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jun 16, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route starts on the far right side of the Bowling Alley 50 feet from the highway. Just left of a four-bolt route is a nice clean face with a two-bolt anchor (unfinished route) 50 feet off the ground. Start on the right side of the face and climb up blocky rock to the first bolt. Climb on good holds up to the third bolt. Tend right and make a series of hard laybacking moves (crux) up a steep face to a large ledge.Reach the ledge and climb up to a bolt on a steep face. Make a hard move past the bolt and reach a slanting crack. Crank up the crack tending left to a exposed moves on the arete. Crank up past the short corner to the belay. The route will clean-up with more ascents and should see a fair amount of traffic being so close to the road. A 200 foot rope just makes it to the ground.

Protection

Eleven bolts to two-bolt anchor.

Photos

Halley13
Boulder, CO
Halley13   Boulder, CO
This route is tricky when it's raining.... Jul 10, 2014
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11d
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11d
It has cleaned up very nicely & become a worthy route. This would still be a tough on-sight. Jul 28, 2009
Aeon Aki

  5.11+
Aeon Aki    
  5.11+
This route has cleaned up very nicely, and the upper pitch is among the best I've done at the Bowling Alley. May 6, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11d
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11d
Felt hard, but maybe I was slipping off too much on lichen and loose rock. It might be worth more stars after a good brush-down. Harder than the supposed 11d/12a to the left and slippery in a few spots. May 21, 2005
This route has some great moves. The highway noise is as bad as it gets, but then that's what you'd expect with a 50 foot approach.

There is a big ledge about 60 feet up the route. The headwall above this ledge has a tricky move above the 2nd bolt (8th bolt overall). The belayer cannot see the leader at this point, plus there is a good amount of rope stretch so a fall can result in the leader hitting the ledge.

The right to the left, Splitting Hares, has a similar upper headwall above a ledge with a hard move at the first bolt. Be careful here too. Oct 13, 2003
Thanks, man! Jul 10, 2003
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
I'll respond to Paul Findley's question about routes below the Practice Rock from the Bowling Alley area to try to move some discussions off the Pinchusion route.

You can see from the picture of Centennial that it is one of the routes. Several of the routes are in the database. Some are not as they were done by another climber and the names are not known.

Here is what I know (the ratings may be off +/- many letters grades): From left to right (walk uphill past the big tree in the picture):

1. trad short crack 5.10? (recent new route)
2. Dry Run 5.9, 3 bolts
3. Happy Ending 5.10, 7 bolts (with hard move getting to anchors)
4. Father Figure 5.11b
5. Shady Deal 5.11, stemming dihedral
6. Splitting Hares 5.10 (pictured)
7. A Tall Cool One 5.12, 9 bolts
8. Centennial 5.11c/d (100ft pitch)
9. Curb Service, 4 bolts (on a block separate from the wall) (2 routes on this block)
10. Just Like Nebraska 5.11d (100 ft right of Centennial)
11. Zee Eliminator 5.10 (1980 trad route) Jul 10, 2003