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Routes in The Bubble

Cold Sweat S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hot Spit S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yam Crack T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: probably E. Johnson
Page Views: 59 total, 0/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 19, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This another short, strenuous sport climb found on an overhanging WSW wall of the Bubble. Combined with Hot Spit, Sneak Preview, Cloud Walker, Lucy & Devi Go Mousing, Drugs, Bidoigt, Rock & Roll, and the hueco climbs of WSW Dinosaur Rock, you can find some gravitational challenges for the moderate climber in this vicinty.

Find this on the WSW face of The Bubble, which lies just West of North Dinosaur Egg. Approach via NCAR to the Mesa Trail, South to Bear Canyon Trail, up (North) the gully between the 2nd and 3rd strata.

The basic beta is sidepull, move feet up, repeat. OK, this may be boring perhaps, but the sidepulls vary. Taping your left Achilles and left 3rd & 4th fingers may be useful. This route climbs steeper than it looks. The crux is after the 3rd bolt involving small holds for liebacks. A stick clip is facile and perhaps useful. The 3rd piece of protection is a drilled angle, reminiscent of Garden of the Gods or the desert. It seems solid. The anchors are a pair of coldshuts. The rock is rough and fluffs up the rope when weighted on TR. Rap the route. It is 35 feet long.

Protection

3 QDs plus some slings for the anchors

Photos

Dustin Clelen
Boulder, CO
Dustin Clelen   Boulder, CO
Anyone have any updated beta for this one? The pin is still good as of 6/2/15. At 11b (Haas calls it 11c in his guidebook), this climb would normally be well within my ability, but I was completely shut down by the upper crux. Any secret holds I'm missing up there? I'm almost wondering if some footholds have broken off or something. Jun 3, 2015