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Routes in Stonehenge

Exploratory Surgery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fiend, The T,S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Measure for Measure? T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Mountaineer's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Thought Control S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: C. Fowler
Page Views: 70 total · 0/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 24, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


This is an obvious line that lies just right of Thought Control on Stonehenge. It's probably been done before, but it isn't in this database. It is suggested on R. Rossiter's topo in Boulder Climbs North. It could be Charlie Fowler's 1980's Measure for Measure. Nonetheless, here's an interesting problem for those who are there and are looking for something else. It can be nearly independent of Thought Control. Yes, it's kinda contrived, but it's fun.

From NCAR, hike to the Mesa Trail to Bear Canyon Trail. Drop down briefly off the trail when you spy Stonehenge in the 3rd strata of Dinosaur Mt along Bear Creek. It's probably best to lead Mountaineer's Route or Thought Control to set a TR up off Thought Control's cold shut anchors for this.

About 10 feet to the right of Thought Control start up an obvious groove with moderate liebacking. Perhaps, even on TR, it's probably best not to fall on the first half of the route. An empty bladder or directional cam at midheight may help for those who cluck. As the groove peters out, you find yourself at the crux as the handholds thin out. Delicately, continue to angle up & left. It eases somewhat after the crux. 70 feet. Enjoy.

This was originally entered as Bladder Control, playfully.


A toprope is probably safer, but it could be led with a finger-sized cam or two at about midheight (head point) and perhaps a weird Big Bro.


George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Good name! I guess we need a route: "Bowel Control, 5.11 X" in this area too ... Mar 26, 2004
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
May I suggest "Fecal Incontinence"? Apr 10, 2004
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
It much too clean a line for a name F. I. Try it, you might understand. :) Apr 12, 2004
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
I thought this line was "Old Man of Hoy"?? I must admit I like Bladder Control though. Feb 19, 2009
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
FWIW, I don't know much about Old Man of Hoy except from Richard Rossiter's excellent guidebooks, but I thought OMOH was to the left of Thought Control...but I could be enlightened by someone else.

Edit: Jason Haas confirmed OMOH is left of Thought Control. Feb 19, 2009

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