Measure for Measure?
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British X
| Type: | Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 39.9719, -105.2886 |
| FA: | C. Fowler |
| Page Views: | 840 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Mar 24, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This is an obvious line that lies just right of Thought Control on Stonehenge. It's probably been done before, but it isn't in this database. It is suggested on R. Rossiter's topo in Boulder Climbs North. It could be Charlie Fowler's 1980's Measure for Measure. Nonetheless, here's an interesting problem for those who are there and are looking for something else. It can be nearly independent of Thought Control. Yes, it's kinda contrived, but it's fun.
From NCAR, hike to the Mesa Trail to Bear Canyon Trail. Drop down briefly off the trail when you spy Stonehenge in the 3rd strata of Dinosaur Mt along Bear Creek. It's probably best to lead Mountaineer's Route or Thought Control to set a TR up off Thought Control's cold shut anchors for this.
About 10 feet to the right of Thought Control start up an obvious groove with moderate liebacking. Perhaps, even on TR, it's probably best not to fall on the first half of the route. An empty bladder or directional cam at midheight may help for those who cluck. As the groove peters out, you find yourself at the crux as the handholds thin out. Delicately, continue to angle up & left. It eases somewhat after the crux. 70 feet. Enjoy.
This was originally entered as Bladder Control, playfully.



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