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Routes in Stonehenge

Exploratory Surgery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fiend, The T,S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Measure for Measure? T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Mountaineer's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Thought Control S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: Dan Michael
Page Views: 2,356 total, 17/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Aug 8, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


The Fiend stems and contorts up the obvious, vibrantly colored, overhanging dihedral on the Stonehenge formation. Boulder past three bolts to a huge flake, place a red Camalot, and then funk your way past two more bolts, and increasingly difficult moves to the anchors. Unfortunately, an existing pebble was reinforced at the top of this route. Nevertheless, this is a very unique, and beautiful climb with a lot of value.


This is the only bolted dihedral on the formation. The anchors consist of two very solid nuts with a single carabiner (nonlocking). There is also a carabiner on the second to last bolt, which makes it easier to clean the route. A 50 meter rope will easily get you down.


7 quickdraws and a single red (#1) Camalot. If you plan to toprope it, you may also want a locking carabiner for the anchors.


As of 8/1/15, all of the old hardware (circa 1987) has been removed and replaced with stainless steel 1/2" sleeve bolts, this includes the rusted piton that protected the crux of the dihedral and the fixed stoppers that once served as the lowering anchor.

Much thanks to Jason Haas and the BCC for donating the hardware and tools, Steve Annecone of the FHRC for helping to expedite the permitting process, and OSMP for their quick approval. Aug 16, 2015
Steve Annecone
Steve Annecone   boulder
Tank, here's the link to the form you need to submit to OSMP for the bolt replacements:…

They usually turn them around quickly and are happy to have someone motivated and willing to replace old bolts. Thanks in advance! Oct 22, 2014
Steve, I'd replace the hardware. What is the process with the OSMP? Oct 17, 2014
Steve Annecone
Steve Annecone   boulder
OSMP would love it if you were to volunteer to replace that hardware. Let me know if you need any help! May 22, 2014
The bolts on this are really corroded, old, and sketchy. Many of the routes in the area from the same era have been rebolted, but this one needs some TLC. May 16, 2014