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Routes in Stonehenge

Exploratory Surgery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fiend, The T,S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Measure for Measure? T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Mountaineer's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Thought Control S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Tony Bubb & John Saccardi, 3/16/03
Page Views: 68 total · 0/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 15, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route climbs the East face of the Northern Aspect of Stonehenge. Find Stonhenge and head up the draw to the north, following the East Side of the cliff-line. After perhaps 50 Meters you will pass a break in the rock where Stonehenge is Bisected. On the right (North) side of this break, the base of the rock is broken dirty, and overhangs severely, making it difficult to access. There is one spot with a n overhanging flake (jugs) and just right of that a quazi-chimney that allows you to stem up onto the East face.

Use the aforementioend features to stem up onto the East face of the Northern Stonehenge rock. Work our way left and up to a left-leaning crack system with reasonable gear. Climb this crack up and left toward the summit, ending just left of the summit. You can place a decent piece near the top, just above a dwarfed tree, before setoong up and right to the true summit. Scramble slightly north from the true summit to build a good belay.

To descend from this summit, you scramble down and to climber's right (North by Northeast) past a dwarfed evergreen shrub to a big crack on a horizontal ledge. From there, stem out due west toward the tops of some boulders, 5.4, with a hidden sidepull, undercling making this easy- find it or it will feel harder. From there, scamble down into a 15' deep "hole" between the big boulders and out under the main rock to the East (not super tight). You will arrive at the North end of the East Face of the rock, about 30' from where you started.

Watch of the piles of pine needles from the branches overhanging this rock on the North end, they leave the rock littered and "slick." It is because of these that this route gets 0 stars.

Protection

Standard light rock including nuts, small tricams, and cams.

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