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Routes in Stonehenge

Exploratory Surgery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fiend, The T,S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Measure for Measure? T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Mountaineer's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Thought Control S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 190 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 114 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 15, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


This route climbs the clean-looking S.E. arete of the Stonehenge. The route is lichened up top and so it requires more effort than the grade implies- you can't just peddle up it on lead or you might slip off. It is better to choose your feet carefully. Were it not for the lichens mentioned, this route would get 2 stars. There are great views back into bear canyon of of this long, continuous line.

Start inthe hard, metamorphasixed stone, climbing solid edges and crimpers for a good distance of clean rock, going up to and past a set of anchors on the left (clip for pro). The rock becomes more like normal flatirons rock from there, with more slopers and knobs replacing the quartzite-like feature below. Unfortunately, this gives way to more development of lichen, on this infrequently climbed route. Continue up the arete as the angle eases off, watching over the backside for a second set of anchors that can be clipped if so desired, with a long sling do drape the rope to the East side fo the rock. The last 40' to the summit (or so) can be climbed more like a ridge than a flatiron and give great exposure on slightly cleaner rock. You will arrive on the summit on probably more than 50M of climbing, but a belay there is problematic and certainly less than solid. I looped the rope over the top (to the West) and climbed down 20 feet of 5.0 to the North into a notch and set a good belay on some large cams (3-3.5"). My partner summited and then down-climbed to the belay.


There is little pro, even for a flatiron. I placed a 3" cam 70' up, then clipped the shuts to "Thought Control" (which is on the S. Side) after about 90' and then found 2 rap rings ont he back (west) side that I pulled over to the front at 140' to clip as well. The summit offers a "butt bucket belay" (solution hole) or you can climb down 20' North to belay in a grrove off of good gear.


Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
About 30 ft up, there is a blue alien placement. Then, a couple feet further up, you can sling a flake or two and possibly girth hitch the tree. Mar 25, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
PS- To descend, you can scramble off E or W from the aforementioned belay, but we climbed back out of the notch to the North to climb one more (higher) summit, up above. Mar 17, 2003

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