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Routes in The Sapper Cave

Butterfly Effect, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cantina Boy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cool World S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cooler World (Extension of Cool World) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crowd Pleaser S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Hand Me the Canteen, Boy S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Handy Boy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Kiss That Stings, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Left El Sapper S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Less Than Zero S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Peleliu S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Right El Sapper S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rumor Has It S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
That One Climb S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tijuana Crack Whore S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Westerplatte S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Charley Bentley, Mike Pont; bolted by Jim Ely
Page Views: 574 total, 3/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Aug 15, 2003
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is another long-neglected Rifle "slab" route that is actually one of the better steep face climbs in the canyon. It is up and right of Rumor Has It, about halfway between the Sapper Cave and the Project Wall, and can be recognized as the prominent blue-grey streak up a vertical face above a pointed pillar.

Stash your stuff at Rumor Has It (on the dirt mound above, and right, of the Sapper Cave) and scramble up a 30-foot chimney (5.6) to a double-bolt belay atop the pillar. (Great views of the Project Wall and the Narrows from here.)

Clip a bolt, then another bolt, and move right along a silty crack, then up to the slab. Well-protected but tricky moves guard the bottom of the vertical face, which stays sustained to a little stance below the prominent finishing bulge. Punch through the bulge to cold-shut anchors that are just a hair right of where they should be. This exposed route offers great, tricky climbing throughout, with lots of good pinches, crimps, and vertical sidepulls. We brushed it pretty well, and it should get cleaner with traffic, but the rock, overall, is pretty damn good.

With a 60-meter rope, your belayer can lower you past the pillar all the way to ground, then rappel off the pillar using you as a counterweight (stay tied in!).

This is named after the Bret Easton Ellis book.

Protection

15 quickdraws and a 60-meter rope.

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