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Routes in The Sapper Cave

Butterfly Effect, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cantina Boy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cool World S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cooler World (Extension of Cool World) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crowd Pleaser S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Hand Me the Canteen, Boy S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Handy Boy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Kiss That Stings, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Left El Sapper S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Less Than Zero S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Peleliu S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Right El Sapper S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rumor Has It S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
That One Climb S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tijuana Crack Whore S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Westerplatte S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Eric Candee, Brad Burroughs
Page Views: 1,505 total, 8/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Dec 5, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a very atypical Rifle climb in that it's both short and follows a fairly monolithic face (as opposed to the usual blocky stuff). The climbing is fingery and sequential, with two distinct bouldery cruxes separated by a good jug. There is a hard clip up high that some people either skip or put long draws on. The air is clean -- it's just a long drop.

Cantina Boy is on the left side of the Sapper Cave and shares a common first two bolts with Hand Me the Canteen, Boy, the arching pod system/crack feature in the center of the cave. After the second bolt, move into a faint dihedral (very overhanging) and up to the lip of a small roof. Thin, cryptic climbing awaits you on the light grey face above. An easier corner takes you to the anchors.

Protection

8 quickdraws.

Photos

MattG
  5.13b
MattG  
  5.13b
Felt every bit of .13b to me - some really hard and sequential moves at the crux. One involves grabbing an undercling which is about the same size as a potato chip. Another bonus - this cave is usually not crowded at all. Get on it!!! Jul 15, 2005